Russian Diamond Manufacturers Speak Out ...

Russian diamond manufacturers speak out  against sale of diamonds from Gokhran to India Antwerp, Belgium - Rough & Polished, Russia's leading diamond industry online news service, reported that earlier this week, the Association of Diamond Manufacturers of Russia (ADMR) had sent a letter to the Indian Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) expressing its indignation about a request made by Anand Sharma, India's Minister of Industry, to Elvira Nabiullina, Russia's Minister of Economic Development, to formalize a mechanism for the sale of diamonds to India by the Gokhran, Russia's State Depository for Precious Metals and Gems. The Gokhran, a state institution that resorts under the Russian Ministry of Finance, is responsible for the sale of all rough diamonds produced in the Russian Federation. "We understand whose interests are being lobbied by Minister Anand Sharma. We understand the pro-active stand of our colleagues, but, gentlemen, Russia also has its manufacturing industry and it is impossible to neglect its interests, it looks at least unethical," Rough & Polished quoted the letter signed by Maxim Shkadov, the CEO of Kristall, Russia's largest diamond manufacturer who is also the Chairman of the ADMR board. ADMR and GJEPC are both members of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA). In his letter, Shkadov argued that in accordance to Rusisan law, the Gokhran sells rough diamonds from its stock to Russian diamond manufacturers, as it aims to reduce the shortages in rough supplies to Russian diamond cutters. However, he emphasized that, as a rule, the amount of rought diamonds sold locally fails to meet demand, even that of ADMR's own members. Having said that, he asked his Indian counterparts: "Do you really offer to formalize a mechanism for the sale of diamonds to India under these circumstances?" Rough & Polished quoted Shkadov continuing his criticism of the Indian minister's request: "Gentlemen, we understand your appetite, but at least have some conscience: Russia is not Zimbabwe and it works in a civilized market under civilized rules. It's quite enough to have Indian companies lined up to buy from ALROSA, which declare a desire to drive out all other customers from this company offering to pay 10% to 15% more. Such moves lead to excessively inflated prices for rough diamonds making manufacturing economically inefficient since polished diamonds turn out to be cheaper than rough. And in this case the reason lies with speculation and not with processing costs, technology or marketing of finished goods as it is used to be within the practice of civilized market. Just remember what your similar actions brought about in 2008. I think, no one would like to have this situation repeated." "We are ready to discuss any options for cooperation in an open mode to prevent any such backdoor activities in the future and we ask you to consider the above in your future endeavors," Rough & Polished quoted Shkadov's concluding words. IDMA Secretary General Ronnie VanderLinden said that Shkadov's frank letter was a welcome fresh breath of air. "The leaders of both of these national diamond manufacturers associations know each other very well and therefore this frank and open letter is an argument held among friends. I am sure that ADMR's contentions will be taken very serious by GJEPC. As members of IDMA, they share a set of common values and interests that go beyond their own, more immediate goals, and that is, among others, the long-term sustenance of the international diamond manufacturing community at large," VanderLinden said.

About IDMA  IDMA was founded and convened for the first time in 1946,  in Antwerp. It is committed to fostering and promoting the highest ideals of honesty and best practice principles throughout the global diamond industry, as well as full compliance with all relevant national and international laws. The organization has developed and adopted a Code of Conduct, which is binding on all 15 member associations. IDMA also works to encourage fair and honorable practices and decent working conditions for industry employees; and to preserve, protect and promote consumer trust and confidence in diamonds. It encourages and supports social responsibility by the industry in respect to all citizens of the world.  The Association has played an active role in establishing the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme and is a co-founder of the World Diamond Council

SOTHEBY’S GENEVA TO AUCTION THE BEAU SANCY

SOTHEBY’S GENEVA TO AUCTION OVER 700 JEWELS

INCLUDING THE BEAU SANCY

A DIAMOND OF SUPREME HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE

JEWELS WITH ILLUSTRIOUS ARISTOCRATIC PROVENANCE

and IMPORTANT PRIVATE COLLECTIONS

On 14 and 15 May 2012, Sotheby’s Geneva will present over 700 lots in its sale of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels. The two‐day sale will be spearheaded by one of the most important historic diamonds ever to come to auction: The Beau Sancy.

Commenting on the forthcoming sale, David Bennett, Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Department in Europe and the Middle East and Co‐Chairman of Sotheby’s Switzerland said: “With fascinating Noble Jewels led by the legendary Beau Sancy diamond, several important private collections including the personal jewels of Suzanne Belperron, and many exceptional gemstones and period creations, the May auction should be a delight for all lovers of fine Jewellery”.


The Beau Sancy
At the heart of the sale will be The Beau Sancy, a diamond which has been the privileged witness of 400 years of European history. Passed down through the Royal Families of France, England, Prussia, and the House of Orange, the celebrated stone was worn by Marie de Medici in 1610 at her coronation as Queen Consort of Henri IV. The 34.98 carat modified pear double rose cut diamond was almost certainly discovered in the area of Golconda in India, the sole source of diamonds until the discoveries in Brazil in the 1720s (est. CHF 1,850,000‐3,650,000/ $2‐4 million, illustration above).



Noble Jewels
Continuing Sotheby’s long tradition of offering jewels with aristocratic provenance, Sotheby’s 

Geneva 6th annual sale of Noble Jewels will bring together gems of great historical significance having belonged to prestigious European families. 


Following the record for a tiara established by Sotheby’s Geneva last May1, the forthcoming auction will include The Murat Tiara, an impressive pearl and diamond jewel created in 1920 by Joseph Chaumet for the marriage of Prince Alexandre Murat (1889 – 1926) to Yvonne Gillois (1894 – 1961) (est. CHF 1,375,000 ‐ 2,285,000/ $1,500,000 – 2,500,000, illustrated left).






Prince Alexandre Murat, through his ancestry with Joachim Murat (1767 – 1815) who married Caroline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s sister, was associated with one of the most glorious periods of French history. The heroic cavalry charges of Joachim Murat, an inn‐keeper’s son from Gascony, contributed to the victories of Iéna, Eylau and Austerlitz and from 1808‐1814 he and Caroline were popular rulers of the Kingdom of Naples and Sicily. The diadem boasts one of the largest natural pearls ever recorded, at 303.37 grains. As stated by the SSEF laboratory, “the main pearl in the center is outstanding in its size and one of the most important pearls certified so far at the SSEF” and “natural pearls of this size, quality and with a documented historic provenance are very rare and thus the described tiara with three large pearls represents a very exceptional treasure”.





In addition to the Beau Sancy, the sale will feature several jewels with royal provenance. Among them is a necklace suspending a detachable pear‐shaped D colour diamond weighing 41.40 carats and coming from the collection of a member of a royal family (est. CHF 2,750,000‐4,550,000 / $3,000,000‐5,000,000, illustrated left).





Another piece of historical importance is to be found in a diamond brooch set with a 7.33 carat Fancy deep yellow diamond coming from the collection of Prince Filippo Corsini, a descendant of the illustrious Florentine family whose history dates back to the 12th century and whose lineage includes many popes (est. CHF 280,000‐480,000/$300,000‐500,000, illustrated below).



The central diamond was offered to the Corsini family by Charles Edward Stuart (1720 – 1788) in the 1770s, most certainly in gratitude for their support during his years of exile. Most commonly known as "Bonnie Prince Charlie", Charles Edward Stuart was the second Jacobite pretender to the thrones of Great Britain and Ireland. His attempt to make the Stuarts regain the crown ended with the Battle of Culloden in 1745 which precipitated his exile to France and Italy. It is possible that the diamond was inherited by Prince Charles from his mother Marie‐Clementina Sobieski, Granddaughter of King John III of Poland and, therefore, was originally part of the Sobieski Jewellery Collection.

Thirteen jewels from the Estate of the late Prince Kinsky will also be presented, shedding light on the history of one of most illustrious and oldest dynasties originating from Bohemia. Tracing its roots back to the thirteen century, the House of Kinsky was part of the most powerful and influential families in the region in the 18th and 19th centuries. Its members served in high diplomatic or military positions of the Habsburg Monarchy and subsequently the Austrian Empire. An Important natural pearl and diamond necklace made circa 1880 evokes the splendour and lavish style of the imperial court (est. CHF 275,000–460,000 / $300,000–500,000, illustrated).



Enjoying a similarly illustrious provenance is a selection of jewels coming from the collection of a member of the Princely Family of Thurn und Taxis.  Among them is a very fine emerald and diamond demi‐parure, composed of a necklace and a pair of earrings, which was purchased by  
Albert, 8th Prince of Thurn und Taxis around 1890, most certainly as a wedding present for Austrian Archduchess Margarete whom he married on 15 July in that year (est. CHF 200,000 ‐ 300,000/ $220,000 – 330,000).
Another highlight from this group is an attractive sapphire and diamond bandeau dating rom early 1930, accompanied by a fitted case which was painted by Princess Margarete of Thurn und Taxis (est. CHF 75,000‐130,000/ $80,000‐ 140,000, illustrated above left).




Typical of the early twentieth century is a fine sapphire and diamond brooch/pendant dating from circa 1910 which belonged to the Italian Countess Adriana Guillichini della Gherardesca (est. CHF 185,000‐370,000/$200,000‐400,000, illustrated below).

JEWELLERY SALES

Sotheby’s Geneva, Hôtel Beau‐Rivage

13 Quai du Mont‐Blanc, 1205 Geneva

14 & 15 May 2012

Jewels from the personal Collection of Suzanne Belperron

Monday 14 May, 10am (lots 1‐60)

Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels

Monday 14 May

11am: Session 1 (lots 61‐186)

2pm: Session 2 (lots 187‐337)

5pm: Session 3 (lots 338‐479)

Tuesday 15 May

5pm: Noble Jewels (lots 480‐595)

7pm: A Superb Private Collection of Gems & Jewels (lots 596‐674)

Magnificent Jewels (lots 675‐734)

EXHIBITION

Hôtel Beau‐Rivage, Geneva

11‐13 May, 10am‐6pm

Monday 14 May, 10am‐7pm (selection of lots)

Tuesday 15 May, 10am‐5pm (selection of lots)

...more from this important sale, closer to the sale date!

New SSEF GemExplorer Website

Announcing the launch of www.gemexplorer.org. This website is rich in information about different gemstone mining regions allowing you to explore many of these by satellite imagery.



The GemExplorer website educates while giving you the possibility to navigate the world’s major sources of coloured gemstones, diamonds and pearls. You can view different mining regions with the help of satellite imagery, pictures of gemstones and read further information about these gemstones and their origins. 

This resource is being updated and improved continuously, and contributors are welcome...if you have a site to contribute, you are welcome to collaborate with us on this project. 


The GemExplorer Application was introduced at the end of 2011 and offers users the ability to plan their next gemstone holiday, or just to navigate the world’s major sources of coloured gemstones, diamonds and pearls. GemExplorer is available in iTunes for your iPhone.

About SSEF:
The Swiss Gemmological Institute, part of the Swiss Foundation for the Research of Gemstones (SSEF: Schweizerische Stiftung für Edelstein-Forschung) was founded by trade organisations in 1974 and works independently on a scientific basis.

The function of the SSEF laboratory is to analyse precious stones and issue test reports for diamonds, coloured stones and pearls. It was recognised in 1978 by the World Jewellery Confederation - CIBJO. It is also a member of theInternational Colored Stone Association - ICA.

All laboratory gemmologists have a scientific and gemmological education and work on a high level of experience and integrity. The laboratory is equipped with the most modern analytical instruments. This ensures that the authenticity of gemstones, origins, and possible treatments can be tested in the most scientific and reproducible manner.  The laboratory primarily examines loose cut stones, but set stones in jewellery pieces are also tested. Test reports are written in English, French or German, they are however,  issued for identification only and do not provide a commercial evaluation.

Sotheby’s to Auction Watches from Legendary Collections

Sotheby’s to Auction Watches from the Legendary Personal 

Collections of Reginald H. Fullerton, Jr. & Grandfather, Henry Graves, Jr.

TO BE OFFERED IN A SINGLE OWNER SALE IN NEW YORK ON 14 JUNE 2012

17 April 2012 – Sotheby’s is honored to announce that it will offer watches from the celebrated collections of Henry Graves, Jr. and his grandson Reginald ‘Pete’ H. Fullerton, Jr. in a single owner sale on 14 June 2012 in New York. Representing two of the finest private collections of watches ever assembled, Watches from the Collection of the late Reginald H. Fullerton, Jr. and his Grandfather Henry Graves, Jr. will comprise a group of 13 pieces collected by Mr. Graves that have never before been published or appeared on the market, as well as a group of 42 wristwatches and an important Knibb Grande Sonnerie Long Case Clock assembled with incredible attention to condition and documentation by Mr. Fullerton, who followed in his grandfather’s footsteps as a passionate and private connoisseur. 


Highlights from the collections will travel to Sotheby’s Geneva from 10-14 May and to Hong Kong for the opening of Sotheby’s new gallery space from 18-22 May, before returning for exhibition in Sotheby’s York Avenue galleries beginning 9 June alongside the various-owner auction of Important Watches & Clocks.


In December 1999, Sotheby’s New York offered The Henry Graves Supercomplication as part of its famed auction of Masterpieces from The Time Museum. The pocket watch, which was commissioned from Patek Philippe by Mr. Graves and features 24 complications, had descended to Mr. Fullerton, who later sold it to the owner Seth Atwood at the Time Museum. In Sotheby’s 1999 auction, the watch sold for a remarkable $11,002,500 – a price that remains the worldwide record for any timepiece at auction.

“We are humbled to have been entrusted with a very personal group of pieces from a family of watch-collecting royalty,” commented Daryn Schnipper, Chairman of Sotheby’s Watches & Clocks department. “Our June auction will offer some of the best examples of the finest references constructed by Patek Philippe, assembled by two members of the most famous patron family in the watch community. The sale includes what is known to-date of the last Graves watches to have descended through this family, each of which has gone unrecorded
in literature and has remained unknown to the public, as well as the entirety of Mr. Fullerton’s impressive assemblage of iconic vintage and modern pieces. Together, this represents what is truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for collectors in today’s market. The auction record price for the Patek Supercomplication serves as a testament to this family’s renown, and the lasting importance of their name among connoisseurs worldwide.”

Henry Graves, Jr. & Reginald H. Fullerton, Jr. 
Henry Graves, Jr. (1868-1953) was born into a banking family who lived in Orange, New Jersey. Eventually he joined his father in the financial industry and moved to New York City, where they became one of the country’s most prominent families by the turn of the century. Among his collecting interests, which included paperweights, coinage and Old Master prints, Mr. Graves was most passionate about watches, and over the course of four decades beginning shortly before the start of World War I, he assembled the world’s most important collections of Patek Philippe in private hands.  


Mr. Graves left the majority of his spectacular watch collection to his daughter, who in turn passed the pieces to her son Pete Fullerton (1933-2012). Mr. Fullerton picked up his grandfather’s passion and connoisseur-ship, and assembled a collection of his own that is distinguished for the exceptional condition of each piece. In addition to his thorough record-keeping and personal daily maintenance, Mr. Fullerton presciently insisted that cases and dials not be touched during cleaning and servicing, and that almost all of his watches retain their original accompaniments. The result is a collection that acts as a time capsule, with each timepiece seemingly untouched since its construction – an exceptional opportunity for collectors.


Watches from the Collections

Among the highlights of the timepieces on offer in the June auction is The Henry Graves Jr. Yellow Gold Tonneau Minute Repeating Wristwatch, Patek Philippe, Mvt 97589, Case 605789 (first photo, top of page, est. $600/800,000*). This watch is unique for being the only example made in yellow gold – its mate, made in platinum, is currently housed in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva – and it bears the iconic Graves Family arms, with the Latin motto Esse quam videri: “To be, rather than to seem”. 


Another highlight of the watches commissioned by Mr. Graves is A Fine and Rare 18K Yellow Gold Split-Second Chronograph Wristwatch with Breguet Numerals, Patek Philippe, Ref. 1436 (pictured left, est. $200/300,000).

Bridging the generations between the two men is A Rare and Important 18K Yellow Gold Trip Minute Repeating Open-Faced Watch, Patek Philippe, which Mr. Graves presented to his son-in-law (Mr. Fullerton’s father) on the occasion of his wedding (pictured right, est. $40/60,000). The piece bears the Fullerton family crest.


The timepieces from Mr. Fullerton’s collection will be led by 11 examples of the most iconic perpetual calendar watches by Patek Philippe from the 1950s to the 1990s, including A Superb 18K Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Center Seconds Wristwatch, Patek Philippe, Ref. 2497 that is distinguished by its unusual case design, dial and early number indicating it is possibly the first such example of this well-known reference (see photo above, est. $200/300,000).  In addition, A Fine and Rare 18K Yellow Gold Automatic Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Leap Year Indication, Patek Philippe, Ref. 3450 featuring a rare white enamel dial was purchased by Mr. Fullerton at Sotheby’s New York in 1990 (pictured left, est. $200/300,000).


Mr. Fullerton was also a keen collector of modern pieces, which will be highlighted in the sale by a group of seven complicated Breguet wristwatches, complete with their original boxes and papers – a signature of Mr. Fullerton’s attention to detail.

Ganoksin 2012 Orchid Raffle: Winners Announced!

Winners of the Ganoksin Orchid Raffle 2012 are Announced! 

   Thanks to our friends at Rio Grande for their generous donation 
    for making the Ganoksin Orchid Raffle 2012 a hit! 

    Rio Grande is your online source for jewelry-making products,         great service, technical know-how. Whether you're just starting      out, a seasoned professional jeweler, metalsmith or artisan, Rio Grande shares your passion. (http://www.riogrande.com)

    Also, a HUGE thanks for those who participated in by purchasing our eBooks and sending                 donations.! Thank you! 

    and.... The lucky winners are.........................................................

    First prize:
    $5,000 Rio Grande Gift Certificate goes to

    Maureen Brusa Zappellini of Cosmo's Moon Jewelry
    Tucson, Arizona. United States

    .....................................................

    Second prize:
    $3,000 Rio Grande Gift Certificate goes to

    Jill Moring
    Pueblo West, Colorado. United States

    .....................................................

    Third prize:
    $1,500 Rio Grande Gift Certificate goes to

    Dan DeArmond of DeArmond Enterprises
    Amarillo, TX. United States

    .....................................................

    Fourth prize: 
    $500 Rio Grande Gift Certificate goes to

    Selin Kent
    New York, New York. United States

    .....................................................

    Support Orchid:  Please do your part and continue to purchase supplies, books
    and services from those who believe in the magic of Orchid and Ganoksin. 

Thank you everyone for your support!
Hanuman

"Orchid has been like an online apprenticeship for me," says Brad Smith of West Los Angeles, a retired engineer and Web site designer turned jeweler. "A given class only exposes you to a limited set [of techniques]. Books and workshops give you a wider appreciation, but it is the Orchid forum that has built the depth of my knowledge. Orchid educates me on the finer details of a process, allows me to ask questions (where a book doesn't), opens up my mind to problems I would never have considered, alerts me to scams and pitfalls, and gives me a sense of community from an otherwise solitary workbench."

The Orchid Forum: Orchid jewelry forum is a moderated e-mail-based discussion group. With 13,000 list members from all over the world, speaking from a wide range of technical and aesthetic experiences, this lively forum addresses questions about every aspect of jewelry making today.

About Ganoksin:  The Ganoksin project provides a variety of quality services for the gem and jewelry community. We work hard to maintain the high standards of our services for the benefit of our visitors. Our services are provided free of charge and to the benefit to all.

Ganoksin is dedicated to serve the information needs of the world's jewelers. It is our mission to educate, improve working conditions and facilitate sharing between goldsmiths globally. Ganoksin continues improving access to information for productivity, safety, skills and education of all jewelers, professionals and hobbyists.

Ganoksin maintains a substantial library of articles, publications, reports, and technical data on gem and jewelry related topics; many of which were authored by some of the most esteemed writers within their respective fields. In addition, this site contains a sizable collection of art and jewelry galleries, for both the casual visitor and the professional.

MJSA Announces Scholarship Opportunities

MJSA Announces Scholarship Opportunities

Deadline June 15, 2012

 

ATTLEBORO FALLS, MASSACHUSETTS--MJSA, the association for jewelry makers, designers, and related suppliers, is seeking students to apply for scholarships that it funds through the MJSA Education Foundation Scholarship Group.

The Scholarship Group consists of five permanent endowment funds managed by the Rhode Island Foundation on behalf of MJSA and the MJSA Education Foundation. Money generated by these funds provides support to students enrolled in jewelry design, jewelry making, or other jewelry-related programs and courses at colleges, universities, and technical schools throughout the United States. Several awards of $500 to $2,000 are given every year.

Last year, the Scholarship Group awarded nearly $7,000 to six recipients studying at various institutions. Since 1997, the MJSA Education Foundation, a 501(c) 3 subsidiary of MJSA, has awarded more than $160,000 in scholarships to students. Applicants can be enrolled in any kind of jewelry training program, as long as they intend to pursue a career in the jewelry industry, and can demonstrate financial need. The student is assessed on the basis of course of study, academics, career plans, recommendations, and industry experience. All applicants must be U.S. citizens.

The 2012 scholarship information is now available at www.mjsa.org/careers_and_education. You will find a link there to the Rhode Island Foundation, which administers the MJSA Foundation scholarships. Click on the Scholarships for College-Level Study link to find the MJSA Education Foundation Jewelry Scholarships and apply there. Because the Rhode Island Foundation administers many scholarship funds, students will need to complete a general registration and application online. The site will list all available scholarships, among them the MJSA opportunities.

For more information, e-mail info@mjsa.org, or call 1-800-444-MJSA (6572).

About MJSA 

MJSA is the U.S. trade association for jewelry makers, designers, and related suppliers. It provides the resources to achieve professional excellence and maintain a competitive edge. For more information, call MJSA at 1-800-444-6572 or visit www.mjsa.org.

Up Close & Personal with THE Ring Everyone is Talking About!

April 13th:
Angelina Jolie was spotted wearing the ring at a private event at Los Angeles County Museum of Art's Chinese Gallerie that she attended with the couples 6 children...


Press outlets everywhere reported the engagement - though the couples representatives hadn't commented...then the first comment that made the reality of the news believable.  

"I can confirm that, yes, Robert Procop did indeed design an engagement ring for Angelina Jolie, designed in collaboration with Brad Pitt," a rep for the Beverly Hills jeweler told THR."

 Then from Brad Pitt's manager: 

"Yes, it's confirmed. It is a promise for the future, and their kids are very happy. There's no date set at this time. Brad designed the ring," the representative, Cynthia Pett-Dante, told CNN.

Angelina Jolie's engagement ring via People Magazine  Howard Pasamanick Photography

Jewelry designer Robert Procop of Beverly Hills, California, designed the diamond engagement ring after a yearlong collaboration with Pitt, his representative said.

"(Pitt) wanted every aspect of it to be perfect, so Robert was able to locate a diamond of the finest quality and cut it to an exact custom size and shape to suit Angelina's hand," the representative said. "Brad was always heavily involved, overseeing every aspect of the creative design evolution. The side diamonds are specially cut to encircle her finger."

The couple has six children together, who are asking them to get married...

"They figured out what marriage is now, they're old enough so now they kind of like the idea of it," Jolie told "Extra" in February. "But we're still convinced that half of them just want to party. They've heard there's good cake."