DDI 2013 fundraising campaign off to a Great Start with Funding from IDMA and the AWDC

IDMA among first organizations to contribute 

to DDI fundraising campaign

The International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA) was among the first industry associations to help kick start the annual industry fundraising campaign of the Diamond Development Initiative International (DDI International). IDMA is among the first contributors, along with the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC).

IDMA Secretary General Ronnie VanderLinden said his organization fully supports DDI's goals and principles. "Our mission statement says clearly that IDMA "works to encourage fair and honorable practices and decent working conditions for those employed in the diamond industry,"VanderLinden said.
"We therefore fully underwrite the DDI's endeavors to achieve fair prices, safe working conditions, education, and the safeguarding of human rights: in the African and South American diamond industry. In our view, by financing, promoting and advancing these efforts, we will also achieve greater consumer confidence in diamonds and diamond jewelry products," he added.

IDMA Treasurer Stéphane Fischler, speaking in his capacity as President of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre said: "We hope that our contribution[s] will encourage others in the industry to join this campaign and to help build a solid base for DDI's excellent work in Africa and South America. DDI is working to improve the lives of people who are very much part of our industry."

About DDIDDI was started five years ago as a way of bringing industry, governments and civil society together to tackle the problem of Africa's 1.5 million artisan diamond diggers. The diamonds they produce and the places they work are where conflict diamonds began and where the potential for renewed violence remains. Although the diamond wars have ended and the Kimberley Process tracks the international rough diamond trade, little has changed for the average digger, who earns a dollar a day, working under appalling conditions

About IDMA

IDMA was founded and convened for the first time in 1946, in Antwerp. It is committed to fostering and promoting the highest ideals of honesty and best practice principles throughout the global diamond industry, as well as full compliance with all relevant national and international laws. The organization has developed and adopted a Code of Conduct, which is binding on all 15 member associations. IDMA also works to encourage fair and honorable practices and decent working conditions for industry employees; and to preserve, protect and promote consumer trust and confidence in diamonds. It encourages and supports social responsibility by the industry in respect to all citizens of the world.The Association has played an active role in establishing the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme and is a co-founder of the World Diamond Council.

Source:   IDMA Press Release

JCK INDUSTRY FUND CURRENTLY ACCEPTING GRANT APPLICATIONS

JCK INDUSTRY FUND CURRENTLY ACCEPTING GRANT APPLICATIONS

The JCK Industry Fund is currently accepting grant applications from individuals, groups or associations whose work results in the betterment of the overall jewelry industry. The JCK Industry Fund awards hundreds of thousands of dollars each year across multiple entities whose programs and services help the overall industry. 

The deadline for submission is December 15, 2012.

Now in its 15^th year, this fund awards grants to projects that: (1) improve the image of the jewelry industry in the eyes of the consumer, and/or (2) aids jewelry industry organizations in addressing serious problems faced within the industry, and/or (3) assists internal organizations and associations in developing training materials. 

"Being able to give back each year to the industry in which we all benefit from, is very rewarding," said Yancy Weinrich, Group Vice President, JCK. "Our industry continues to evolve, and so do the programs that our associations, organizations and individuals have developed. I am very proud of this annual contribution and encourage all organizations to consider submitting their grant proposal."

Past winners have included Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), The American Gem Society (AGS), The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), The Jewelers Security Alliance (JSA), Diamond Development Initiative (DDI) and the Women's Jewelry Association (WJA).

In order to be considered, applicants must submit a formal proposal in writing directly to JCK and include all of the following elements: The purpose of the grant; the amount requested; timing for allocation of monies and a plan for its allocation; historical budget data; measurable expected benefits; and an agreement outlining JCK's right to conduct financial auditing of funds allocated to ensure suitable usage.  

All applications will be reviewed and final recipients will be chosen by a Fund Advisory Committee comprised of representatives from the manufacturing and retail segment, as well as JCK. The recipients will be chosen based upon their synergy with the overall core goals and intentions of the Fund. Winners are notified in early 2013 and a formal announcement listing the winners will be distributed.

To apply for the JCK Industry Fund click here: http://lasvegas.jckonline.com/JCKs-Industry-Fund/ 

ABOUT JCK EVENTS:
JCK is a trusted partner connecting jewelry retailers and manufacturers/suppliers with trends, news, products, education and partners to build business. Whether attending face-to-face events, building inventory with online and onsite sourcing or obtaining authoritative news and insights from JCK, the leading industry magazine in print & online, JCK offers a suite of tools, events and information to deliver sound solutions, innovative opportunities and essential information. Mark your calendars as JCK Events presents its portfolio of upcoming buying opportunities:

-	LUXURY Privé Panama: October 22 – 24 – Panama City, Panama, Westin Playa Bonita
-	LUXURY and Elite Enclave: May 28 – 30, by invitation only, and then continues as the events open their doors to all JCK retailers Friday, May 31 – Monday, June 3 – Four Seasons, Mandalay Bay, THEhotel
-	Swiss Watch: May 31 – June 3 – Mandalay Bay, THEhotel, Mandarin Oriental
-	JCK Las Vegas: May 31 – June 3 – Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino
-	LUXURY Privé New York: July 29 - July 31 – New York, The Pierre Hotel – Fifth Avenue

GemBasics Gemology Course From JTV With Gem-A

Jewelry Television Debuts 

GemBasics Gemology Course

Retailer collaborates with 

Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

Jewelry Television® and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain announced a collaboration on an introductory online gemology course called GemBasics. More than a year and half in development, the online course was designed to address the educational needs of JTV’s viewers and fill an existing void in gemological education.

We understood that our viewers are passionate about gems and jewelry, so the commitment to develop a GemBasics course with the Gemmological Association of Great Britain was a logical extension of our vision.

Jewelry Television selected Gem-A since the organization is the world’s longest established provider of gem and jewelry education. In addition to the GemBasics course developed for JTV, Gem-A offers multiple courses that provide advanced training and education in the fields of gems and jewelry. Gem-A courses are used in 25 countries around the world.

“As part of our vision to bring the world of gems and jewelry to all our viewers, JTV quickly realized the need and desire for continuing education. To that end, we developed an online Learning Library that provides articles by trade experts, a glossary of gem and jewelry terms, an E-publication called In the Loupe, and an extensive treatment and disclosure chart that is the most comprehensive available,” said Gerald D. Sisk Jr., graduate gemologist and co-founder of JTV. “We also offer seminars and conferences as part of our ongoing commitment to education. We understood that our viewers are passionate about gems and jewelry, so the commitment to develop a GemBasics course with the Gemmological Association of Great Britain was a logical extension of our vision.”

Developed in cooperation with Dr. Jack Ogden and the educational staff at Gem-A, GemBasics includes all the necessary components for completion; tools, gemstones and written course material, consisting of 12 lessons, are augmented by online video and technical support. Students are allotted a 12-month study period. After successful completion of the final exam, students are awarded a statement of achievement and acknowledged as a Gem-A Colored Stone Associate.

“Understanding gems is about recognizing the beauty of nature. For a hundred years, Gem-A has had the privilege of introducing people to the world of gemology and we are greatly looking forward to working with JTV to share our passion with an even wider audience,” Sisk said.

About JTV
Jewelry Television® is the only broadcast shopping network that focuses exclusively on the sale of jewelry and gemstones. The privately-held company was founded in 1993 and broadcasts high definition programming 24 hours a day, seven days a week, to more than 80 million unique households in the U.S. Jewelry Television® was recently ranked the 13th largest retailer of jewelry in the U.S. by National Jeweler. JTV.com is the fifth largest jewelry destination on the internet according to Internet Retailer’s Top 500 Guide for 2010. For more information, visit JTV.com.

About Gemmological Association of Great Britain
The Gemmological Association of Great Britain, or Gem-A, is the world’s longest established provider of gem and jewellery education. Their Diploma in Gemmology is the direct descendant of the gem course that was proposed for the UK jewellery trade in 1908. Their prestigious Diplomas in Gemmology and Diamonds, taught around the world, are now globally recognized as qualifications of the highest status. Diploma graduates may apply for election to Fellowship (FGA) or Diamond Membership (DGA) of the Association.

MJSA conFab Teaches Business Skills to Jewelry Makers and Designers

MJSA conFab Teaches Business Skills to Jewelry Makers and Designers

Nearly 100 jewelry makers, designers, and students spent the day at FIT learning about pricing, inventory control, digital marketing, and more

 ATTLEBORO FALLS, MA—MJSA, the association dedicated to professional excellence in jewelry making and design, welcomed the newest generation of jewelry makers and designers to its first conFab educational event on Oct. 14. Held at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York City, the full-day program featured sessions on strategy and planning, pricing, inventory control, custom design, and digital marketing. Jewelry making students from FIT were also invited to attend, and they joined the mostly professional audience of almost 90 attendees in learning business skills to help them achieve success.

“MJSA knows that guidance on running a business is one of the key areas where jewelry makers and designers want extra help. Our first conFab was designed to meet that need,” said MJSA President/CEO David W. Cochran. “We were committed to taking some intense topics, such as pricing and inventory, and making them fun—and our speakers really came through. From a game show on pricing, to a giant, interactive Monopoly board that taught inventory skills, the audience was entertained as well as enlightened.”

Among the day’s highlights:

• Management expert Andrea Hill of Campbellsport, Wisconsin–based StrategyWerx, led a discussion on strategic planning with design advocate and consultant Cindy Edelstein of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau, as well as designers/jewelry makers Bree Richey of Bree Richey Designs, and Malak Atut of Zaiken Jewelry. The experts covered the key factors that go into successful planning, including customer targeting, budgeting, creating a business plan, and marketing.

• Arthur Skuratowicz of the Jewelry Training Center in Colorado Springs, Colorado, and custom jeweler Gary Dawson of Gary Dawson Designs in Eugene, Oregon, competed in “The Price Is Right,” a lively game show that brought out key factors when pricing jewelry. MJSA Journal Editor in Chief Tina Snyder served as MC.

• Cincinnati-based jeweler Lee Krombholz presented his unique “Style Discovery” method, which helps him to identify the tastes and style preferences of customers who ask for a customized design.

• Andrea Hill conducted the “Inventory Game,” a board game (with Play-Doh “inventory”) that brought out key lessons in how to manage in-stock items and increase turns.

• Rio Grande Marketing Manager Eugene Brill, along with Gary Dawson, presented the key factors to online marketing success, and demonstrated how to apply them by offering critiques of conFab attendees’ websites.

The day ended with conFab conNect, a final chance to network and share refreshments.

"The MJSA conFab was a crucial turning point in the examination of my business and one of the best seminars I have ever attended,” said Daniela Lo Presti, marketing director for Officina Bernardi USA, a maker of gold and silver jewelry.  “I am a better businesswoman and professional for having attended and I was proud to be among such esteemed professionals.”

“I appreciate that designers Bree Richey and Malak Atut generously shared not clichéd advice, but real tips and insights based on their experience,” said Elina Bromberg, a partner in B.G. Art Jewelry Atelier, a full-service jewelry boutique based in New York City. “The inventory session with Andrea Hill was also extremely helpful and revealed a lot of hidden aspects of inventory management of which many of us are simply not aware. Gary Dawson was extremely charming and his advice on pricing and websites was very enlightening. I was especially interested in his views on how to account for the ‘uniqueness factor’ when pricing a piece of designer jewelry. Finally, conFab’s networking was just priceless. I met a representative of a casting company that I needed badly, and I even found an intern for our company among the FIT students who attended the conference.”

“As a student, conFab helped to bridge the gap between my technical knowledge and the application of that information to the small business market,” said John Sciortino, an FIT student who has Graduate Jeweler (G.J.) and Applied Jewelry Arts (A.J.P.) diplomas from the Gemological Institute of America. “The dynamic range of energetic and experienced business owners who I heard speak, and who I met personally, helped me to better understand the steps I will need to take to prepare for my future in the jewelry industry.”

MJSA conFab attendees also can access “Online Extras”—related articles, videos, and other resources on special password-protected pages on the MJSA website (MJSA.org). These resources will continue to be posted to the pages for several months after the event, creating a digital extension of conFab.

Sponsors for MJSA conFab were the MJSA Foundation (Prime Sponsor); the Richline Group and the Leach Garner Group (Benefactors); Cindy Edelstein, the Jewelry Biz Guru; Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co.; Johnson Matthey NY; Novell Group; Platmex; Rio Grande; Riva Precision Manufacturing; Stuller/Gemvision; TracTech Systems; and United Precious Metal Refining Inc.

MJSA plans to present additional conFab events in the future. For more information, click here:http://mjsa.org/events_and_programs/mjsa_confab.

About MJSA 

MJSA is the U.S. trade association for jewelry makers, designers, and related suppliers. It provides the resources to achieve professional excellence and maintain a competitive edge. For more information, call MJSA at 1-800-444-6572 or visit www.mjsa.org

Gemewizard announces launch of GemePrice 3.0 with IDEX!

Gemewizard announces launch of GemePrice 3.0, 

a one-stop pricing station for diamonds 

and colored diamonds, gemstones and jewelry

 Following signing of strategic agreement between Gemewizard and IDEX Online, IDEX's real-time diamond pricing data is now part of the GemePrice 3.0 package

 

RAMAT GAN, ISRAEL: OCTOBER 11, 2012 - With the launch of GemePrice3.0™, the most comprehensive online pricing system for the diamond, gemstone and jewelry sectors, Gemewizard® and IDEX Online have announced the signing of a strategic agreement that will enable Gemewizard to use IDEX Online's diamond pricing data.

Tailor-made for industry professionals, this one stop pricing station allows for up-to-date pricing of diamonds, fancy-colored diamonds and colored gemstones. Furthermore, a new module enables jewelers and retailers to estimate the market prices of all of a jewelry item's separate components, including precious metals.

GemePrice 3.0 is the next generation of Gemewizard's groundbreaking GemePrice™ system, which uses the Gemewizard color analysis method. The prices listed by GemePrice are generated using algorithms developed by Gemewizard and IDEX Online, that analyze the prices of half a million diamonds with a total value of more than $4 billion, fancy colored diamonds worth more than $200 million, and more than $100 million of colored gemstones, being offered for sale at any particular time online.

Gemewizard further authenticates fancy-colored diamonds and colored gemstones through consultation with a panel of industry-renowned experts and by analysis of real-time commercial data obtained from transactions taking place on the Gemewizard trading platforms.

GemePrice 3.0 is simple to use and accessible from any computer or smartphone. "This is a tool that is being designed not only for the gem expert," said Menahem Sevdermish, Gemewizard's founder and president. "It is geared also for retail jewelers, who will be able to obtain an accurate and current price evaluation of a jewel anytime and anywhere around the globe in multiple languages and in local currencies."

"GemePrice 3.0 represents the collective credibility of two of the industry's most transparent pricing systems," said Abraham Stern, CEO of IDEX Online. "Both Gemewizard and IDEX Online systems are transparent, based on real asking prices from professional dealers from all over the world  in real time."

The price lists for diamonds are updated weekly while the colored diamonds and gemstones are updated monthly.

The annual subscription fee for GemePrice 3.0 has not increased with the introduction of the diamonds module and the Pricing Station feature. Current colored diamonds and gemstones subscribers of GemePrice will be able to upgrade to the comprehensive GemePrice 3.0 system at no additional charge. Subscribers currently using the gemstone-only package will be able to upgrade to the full package for an additional $60.

To read more about GemePrice 3.0, please visit http://www.gemewizard.com/store-price.php 

About Gemewizard:

Gemewizard® is a pioneer in the development of digital color based systems, which provide solutions for professionals involved in the fancy color diamond, colored gemstones and jewelry industries, enabling the analysis, description, communication, pricing and trading of color in gems. The suite of products developed by Gemewizard® is based on the company's groundbreaking color communication technology called GemeSquare™, which has been endorsed by GIA® Education, and since 2006 has been incorporated into the GIA® curriculum.

About IDEX Online:

IDEX Online SA is a leading provider of trading services and content for the diamond industry. Anchored by the world's largest online diamond inventory, valued at over $4 billion with more than 3,000 buyer requests at any given time, IDEX Online SA includes objective wholesale pricing information, market trends, and up-to-date industry news and analysis. Founded in 2000 by experienced industry professionals, IDEX Online SA maintains offices in all major diamond centers worldwide, ensuring a secure, unbiased and user-friendly environment to meet the needs of thousands of traders anytime, anywhere.

SOURCE:  Gem-E-Wizard

Jane Basch at JCK and Beyond...

Talked to the great folks at Jane Basch and they shared these shots from the JCK Show earlier this year in Las Vegas!   ...I tried to get shots but the day I was at the Designer Pavilion, this booth was jammed!

Jane Basch is so much more than just personalized pendants but as we can attest it is definitely what she is known for...

Jane Basch Designs is the branded division of Basch & Co, a company that has been making personalized jewelry in America for over 60 years. All of the manufacturing is done in their factory in Florida. Each design is drawn by hand, cut by hand, hand engraved, and then finished with the same quality and craftsmanship it was 60 years ago.

This was so cool!   the folks at the booth took photos of all the attendees in their personalized Jane Basch pendants....

“Have confidence in yourself and your style,” says Jane, “Put on your red lipstick and a little mascara you only live once”

Jane’s insight into the fashion world has helped her give a modern twist to more traditional jewelry pieces. 

Jane keeps her designs personal, because she believes that every women should have the luxury of receiving personalized custom jewelry. 

Each collection is designed with purpose and meaning with the intent that jewelry should be fun, whimsical, and a celebration of life.

Jane Basch Designs she makes it Personal…

The Real Gems of East Africa...Her People

GIA attended the Arusha International Gem and Mineral Fair to learn how it can serve the local community with gemological education and resources. This initiative is part of GIA’s expanded effort to help bring the broader benefits of the gem trade to people in the places where gems are produced.

The following has been re-printed with the permission of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)...

Add Value to East Africa Gems 
and People Will Shine, Too

By Robert Weldon, GG

GIA Manager of Photography and Visual Communications

Figure 2: A young lion pauses at a watering hole at the
N'goroN’goro Conservation Area in Tanzania.

Once the lions left the watering hole to hunt, Miriam Kamau was able to collect the water she needed for her own survival. Aside from the daily task of avoiding contact with these carnivores, the conditions near the mines at which she worked near Voi, Kenya, were fraught with other types of hostility.

“I hunted for meat, lived like a boy (to avoid problems a young woman might face) and I dug for gemstones. For most people there is no understanding about working at the mines – seeing life and death, feeling it, and smelling it,” she explained. “But I always knew those conditions would change. I knew this from my faith and because of my hunger for knowledge.”

Figure 1: The gemstones of East Africa are courtesy of Bridges
Tsavorite, Evan Caplan,Intercolor USA, and RareSource.
From top, left to right: Rhodolite garnet, 44.36 carats from Kenya
 (Caplan); tanzanite,29.20 carats from Tanzania (Intercolor); sphene,
25.03 carats from Madagascar (RareSource); sapphire, 22.12 carats
from Madagascar (Caplan); tsavorite garnet, 10.64carats from Kenya
(Bridges Tsavorite); pink spinel 5.26 carats from Tanzania (Caplan);
green cuprian tourmaline 17.84 carats from Mozambique (Raresource);
ruby, 4.05 caratsfrom Mozambique (Caplan); chrysoberyl 12.77 carats
from Tanzania (RareSource);canary tourmaline,12.45 carats from Zambia
(RareSource); malaia garnet,16.70 caratsfrom Tanzania (RareSource);
golden tourmaline, 2.28 carats from Kenya (BridgesTsavorite); chrome
tourmaline, 5.27 carats from Tanzania (RareSource); lavender spinel,
13.18 carats from Tanzania (RareSource); and spessartite garnet,
2.09 carats from Kenya(Bridges Tsavorite).

Kamau, a Nairobi, Kenya-based gem dealer, attended the first-ever Arusha International Gem and Mineral Fair (AIGMF) held in late April 2012. Like many other gem dealers across Africa, Kamau personifies the struggles of so many Africans to eke out a living in the gem business.

And yet East Africa remains one of the world’s greatest suppliers of gemstones, many of which can’t be found anywhere else. As the African economies grow, in part by meeting global demand for rare earth minerals, metals, diamonds and gems, the question arises: will its people be able to reap the rewards and surge ahead as well?

The city of Arusha, Tanzania owes its existence to tourism. Located close to Mt. Meru and Mt. Kilimanjaro and noteworthy wildlife preserves such as the N’goro N’goro Conservation Area, it hosts visitors from around the world who come to see its natural beauty. Arusha, which can be reached on a direct flight from Europe, also benefits from the wealth and natural resources of nearby gem mines, particularly tanzanite.

Figure 5: A tanzanite cutter polishes rough at the TanzaniteOne facilities. TanzaniteOne,the largest gem miner in the region, 
said it is building a much larger cutting facility in Tanzania.

The AIGMF show, with substantial support from the Tanzanian government and the Tanzania Mineral Dealers Association (TAMIDA), shed light on the efforts the country is making to bring business to the source and help Tanzanians gain a stronger foothold in the gem and jewelry industry.

“One year in preparation, [the show] illustrates the magnitude of importance our government has placed on this,” said William Ngeleja, Tanzania’s recently departed minister of energy and minerals.

“We want to see transactions for gems mined here to be concluded here. We also want to create incentives for foreign buyers to relocate and bring in the necessary resources for capacity building – be it in exploration, the mining sector, the cutting sector or jewelry making. This will help job creation, poverty alleviation and be good for our country,” he explains.

The show clearly reflected his government’s attitude and was deemed a largely positive experience for exhibitors and buyers. It drew 500 attendees from 25 countries; 300 were buyers representing 200 companies.

“Considering this was our first attempt, I could not be more encouraged and happy,” said the show’s organizing chairman, gem dealer Abe Suleman, who is based in Arusha. “Tanzania exported $3.9 million in sales at the show.”

Figure 9: Miriam Kamau provides textbooks for teachers at her school and is working with local food providers to make school meals available to students.
Image courtesy of Miriam Kamau.

Other important milestones were reached as well. For one, AIGMF successfully brought gem dealers from across East Africa together in an open, business-friendly environment. Show officials acknowledged some recalcitrance from potential exhibitors from neighboring countries who were not sure how their exports into Tanzania would be handled.

Government officials said they will redouble their efforts to open the borders for import and export so neighboring countries such as Kenya, Zambia and Mozambique can easily bring goods to the show. This will have a significant impact on the amount of gems available to buy at the show, a necessary draw for international buyers.

Figure 4: VIP delegates at the Arusha International Gem and Mineral Fair included (from left to right) 

Doug Hucker, CEO, American Gem Trade Association, Hon. William M. Ngeleja (former) minister 

of Energy and Minerals, Abe Suleman of Tuckman Mines and Minerals, Sammy Mollel, Chairman of 

TAMIDA, and Idar-Oberstein Germany-based gem dealer, Eckehard Petsch.

“It will need more of a critical mass to guarantee success,” said American Gem Trade Association’s CEO, Doug Hucker, who attended the show as guest. “As we know, what attracts buyers are goods. I would like to see a much larger cooperation between regional governments to ensure it will work.”

Monica Gichuhi, CEO of the Kenya Chamber of Mines, said the potential for gem mining on a large scale in her country is also vast and they look forward to bringing more goods to the Arusha show.

“We need mechanization, support, and know-how,” she explained, "and we are looking for equitable partnerships. So for us, the AIGMF was an excellent forum to meet people and exchange ideas. I can also say that Kenya supports value addition.”

Figure 8: Delegates and exhibitors paused for a photo
at the Arusha International Gemand Mineral Fair.
From left, Monica Gichuhi CEO of the Kenya Chamber
of Mines; gem dealer Evan Caplan; President of the
International Colored Gemstone Association,Wilson Yuen; gem dealer Miriam Kamau; gem dealer Benjamin Hackman.

Another hot topic at the show was the debate among Tanzanians and gem dealers regarding the efficacy of a “certificate of origin” the country wishes to impose on the export of gem materials, particularly tanzanite, to curb illegal exports, or smuggling.

Critics point out that the added burdens and costs of the paperwork, not to mention fear of governmental interference, would only exacerbate illegal exports. Additionally, countries importing gems from Tanzania will have to sign bilateral agreements and ensure that certificates of origin actually accompany them, something not a single importing country has agreed to.

At the heart of the government’s intention is a desire to create a value-added industry in Tanzania. Officials acknowledge that most tanzanite rough is fashioned in Jaipur, India, a factor they would like to see reversed.

Figure 3: Tanzanite, one of East Africa’s most notable gems, is a form of the mineral zoisite. Discovered in 1967, it is only found in Tanzania. Tanzanite  crystal specimen courtesy of Evan Caplan, and the faceted tanzanite, 10.22 carats is courtesy of John Dyer & Co

.

“We want the development of this sector to be industry-driven, but note that while it all begins right here in Tanzania, there are only a few hundred cutters here compared to several thousand in India,” Ngeleja explained. “This disparity needs to be overcome; what we are asking for is that the Indians become partners in helping us build business here in Tanzania and in East Africa.”

Kamau’s perseverance – her tenacity to become a gem dealer – paid off. She attributes this to close spiritual counsel from her mother, Grace Kamau; her mentor, minister Teresa Wairimu Kinyanjui; and advice and introductions from people she met in the business.

One was the late and legendary gem explorer and miner, Campbell Bridges, who discovered Kenya’s tsavorite garnet at Taita-Taveta (near Voi) decades ago. He introduced her to several people, including Judy Waigwa who gave Kamau her first lessons in mining and understanding gem rough. Waigwa also took her to Thailand, showing her the possibilities of transacting business on a grander scale.

Soon the young woman who eluded lions near the mines was conducting gem business as a broker and gem dealer. She met members of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) including its Kenyan ambassador, Suzie Kennedy, who persuaded her to become an ICA member. “You have what it takes,” Kennedy told her.

Everyone she has come in contact with has taught her something new, she said, over time sharpening her business and gemological skills. And the baton has been passed: Kamau is today’s Kenyan ambassador to the ICA.

East Africa’s emerging position as one of the world’s important gem purveyors needs to remain strong as well as sustainable so its people, like Kamau, can thrive, too.

Figure 7: Gem dealer Bill Larson spoke about the amazing
variety of gemstones are found in Eastern Africa.

“In the 1960s, Africa was a very minor player on the world colored gemstone scene,” said Bill Larson, a gem dealer based in Fallbrook, California, who gave the keynote presentation on the history of East African gemstones at the AIGMF show. “Look at where you are today,” Larson told attendees. "You have gemstones that are exclusive to Africa, like tanzanite and tsavorite, but also very important sapphire and ruby deposits in recent years. And it has all come about relatively quickly.”

Infrastructure will be needed to build a value-added gem business in East Africa. Even if roads and cutting facilities are built, however, a truly skilled labor force remains elusive, and will only emerge as the need is defined.

At the fair, Colorado-based master gem cutter Stephen Avery donated his time to teaching faceting seminars and noted that attendance at his seminars was filled to the brim every day, underscoring a hunger for knowledge.

For its part, AIGMF has kicked off a vigorous campaign to raise funds to educate and empower small-scale miners and gem dealers – particularly women.

Figure 6: The Tanzanian government favors cutting a larger percentage of the rough
material mined from its country, in a bid to add value to its exports. These
TanzaniteOne facilities are cutting a small percentage of the rough they mine.

“We have commitments for about $75,000 from various segments to establish a panel to administer scholarships. Right now our focus is on empowerment for women; they have a greater need and are a very stable part of the labor force in Africa,” Suleman said.

The foundation is looking for ways people can learn gem cutting and jewelry making, which is the government of Tanzania’s over-arching goal. TanzaniteOne, the region’s large-scale mine for tanzanite, has contributed to the empowerment fund and said it is constructing a large facility for cutting tanzanite at the source.

While just the beginning of a change for East African gemstones, it is something tangible that will help the people of Tanzania, Kenya, Mozambique and Zambia help themselves.

Kamau said that even though her living is modest, she feels blessed by the people she has met over time, and by the magnificent array of gems East Africa provides. She is especially grateful to those who are confident in her abilities, such as Intercolor USA’s Benjamin Hackman, who is as an important business mentor for her. “He is like a father to me.”

Figure 9: Miriam Kamau provides textbooks for teachers at her school and is working with local food providers
to make school meals available to students. Image courtesy of Miriam Kamau.

“I am giving back, too,” she said. “But what I give must be meaningful – so I am providing the teachers where I once went to school with textbooks. I can’t do this for all of the students, but I can do it for the teachers. I am also persuading local dairies and businesses to provide milk and food for the students throughout the year. If they are healthy, they can learn better.”

In many ways, Kamau’s idea is a model for how the gem business could be handled in East Africa. If you provide the tools and promote education, the trade will grow naturally.


Photo credit:  All photos by Robert Weldon, © GIA 2012, unless otherwise noted.