#InMyInbox - Winter Reading From #GIA - Recent #BookReviews

Reprinted with links to the full book reviews on the GIA website...

London-based jeweler Graff Diamonds was founded in 1960. Since that time, Graff has become an internationally known and important purveyor of large diamonds of historical renown. With stores around the globe, the Graff name has become synonymous with opulence and rarity in jewelry circles. Graff Diamonds has been awarded the Queen’s Award for International Trade multiple times, and Graff himself was awarded the Order of the British Empire in 2013. This luxurious, large-format book pays homage to the jewelry house in eight lavish chapters.

Full Review at:  http://www.gia.edu/book-review-graff

The Swiss gemologist Dr. Edward J. Gübelin (1913–2005) will be forever linked to the study of inclusions in gems. His work revolutionized gemology: As a result of his groundbreaking research and photomicrography, these internal features are now recognized for their diagnostic value, as indicators of a gem’s identity, geographic source, treated or untreated condition, and natural or synthetic origin.
 
This book, written by several family members, chronicles Edward Gübelin’s 65 years of pioneering research but also provides insight into his profound humanity. Even though the work of a research gemologist is often solitary, Dr. Gübelin touched thousands of lives through his prolific writings and photomicrographs, his extensive travels, the work of his laboratory, the educational organizations he helped establish, and the important gem collection he assembled.

Full Review at:  http://www.gia.edu/book-review-eduard-josef-gubelin-story-art-science-gems

Beth Bernstein’s If These Jewels Could Talk is a lush visual treat for anyone interested in the history of cinema, important jewelry and gemstones, and the place of powerful women in Western culture. The timeless jewelry pieces, by some of the biggest names in the jewelry industry, almost outshine the celebrities who owned and wore them.

Full Review at: http://www.gia.edu/book-review-if-these-jewels-could-talk-legends-behind-celebrity-gems

The Hellenistic period refers to the era between the death of Alexander the Great in 323 BC and the rise of ancient Rome circa 30 BC. The spread of Greek culture through Alexander’s invasion of eastern lands, from the Mediterranean basin to modern-day Pakistan, influenced many indigenous cultures of these regions and left a significant mark on the region’s history, arts, science, and literature.

Full Review at:  http://www.gia.edu/book-review-arts-hellenized-east-precious-metalwork-gems-pre-islamic-era

This volume is a pleasing combination of coffee-table book, reference book, and guide to a museum collection. It is the 25th anniversary revised edition of the authors’ Gems and Crystals: From the American Museum of Natural History (1990). There is a certain sense of continuity conveyed by having the same authors still working in the field adding to the collection and knowledge base.

Full Review at:  http://www.gia.edu/book-review-gems-crystals-from-one-worlds-great-collections

With the September 2015 release of “A Heritage in Bloom,” the world’s most expensive diamond necklace, Chinese jewelry designer Wallace Chan returned to center stage. The exquisite necklace showcases the 104.27 ct D-color, internally flawless Cullinan Heritage diamond, together with 23 D–IF stones cut from the same rough, pink diamonds, white diamonds of different sizes, mutton-fat nephrite jade, and green jadeite. The piece is considered a milestone for Chow Tai Fook, the world’s largest jewelry retailer; it also symbolizes a new height of his design career, a path outlined in the recently released Wallace Chan: Dream Light Water. Written by Juliet Weir de La Rochefoucauld and Chan himself, the book takes readers on a colorful tour of the designer’s master works over the past 42 years. Through the 86 pieces selected, one reaches a better understanding of Chan’s life and design philosophy.

Full Review at:  http://www.gia.edu/book-review-wallace-chan-dream-light-water

Stoned is an approachable and entertaining web of stories that sheds light on epic jewellery lore while unravelling some of the most notorious and familiar legends. Author Aja Raden takes a classic yet playful American point of view, concentrating on value and worth over the artfulness of the jewellery itself.

Full Review at:  http://www.gia.edu/book-review-stoned-jewelry-obsession-desire-shapes-world

Patent Protection Granted for Ring Jacket Design - Murray's Jewelers

Todd Murray has been designing and selling jewelry for 42 years at his Muncie, Indiana store...Murray's Jewelers.  This is the first time he has looked into patenting a design

According to the Star Press - Murray has designed a ring jacket or as the Patent Abstract states “a jewelry ring configuration having interchangeable elements.” Murray said he noticed that with many rings that had jackets, or outer bands, the center ring would slip and rotate around the finger. So, he created a jacket that would lock that center ring in place. With a multi-sided shape in the center, the interchangeable center ring doesn’t shift. He describes it as working like a puzzle piece."

Jewelry designs rarely seek or receive patent protection because designs are usually copyrighted, but Murray's design was actually a utility piece.

"There are three major things you look for when you (are) getting a patent,” Patent Lawyer Ritchison said. “It needs to be new or novel, useful and not obvious as to other things that are out there."

Murray came up with his concept in 2013, and then he started the process for obtaining the patent. He received official documentation Sept. 13. The store now has patents pending in 28 European countries, which if they go through, would allow the store to manufacture the product overseas.

FAVORITES from the Important Jewelry Sale at #LeslieHindemanAuctioneers Over the Weekend #Auction #Jewelry

Some #DailyJewel favorites from the Important Jewelry sale at Leslie Hindeman Auctioneers over the weekend....everything from colored diamonds to Deco pieces and mosaics to critter jewelry and even a tassel piece and a two stone diamond ring!

Sale 451 Lot 529
A Platinum, Yellow Gold, Fancy Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring, Graff,
containing one radiant cut fancy yellow diamond weighing approximately 7.25 carats and two tapered baguette cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.48 carat total.
Inscribed: GRAFF 7.25 FVVS2.

Accompanied by an inner case and outer box signed GRAFF.

Accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America colored diamond grading certificate number 2145404525, dated February 13, 2012, stating Color: Natural Fancy Yellow, Even, Clarity: VVS2, Polish: Very Excellent, Symmetry: Excellent, Fluorescence: None. Laser Inscription Registry: GIA 2145404525, Additional Inscription: GRAFF.
4.40 dwts.
Estimate $ 130,000-150,000 

SOLD:  $161,000
Property from a Private Collection, Naples, Florida

Ring measures approximately size 6 1/4.

Sale 451 Lot 149
An Art Deco Platinum, Burmese Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Noble & Co.,
containing one round double cabochon cut sapphire measuring approximately 15.26 x 15.24 x 11.42 mm and weighing approximately 27.90 carats set within an intricately hand engraved basket setting with claw prongs at the compass points and accented with six old European and transitional brilliant cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.17 carat total.
Stamp: NOBLE & CO. PT.

Accompanied by a Gubelin Gem Laboratory sapphire identification and origin certificate number 14105193, dated October 27, 2014, stating Species: Natural Corundum, Variety: Sapphire, Origin: Burma (Myanmar), Enhancement: No indications of heating.
7.70 dwts.
Estimate $ 45,000-65,000

UNSOLD

Sale 451 Lot 189
A Bicolor Gold, Colored Diamond and Diamond Ring, 
containing one marquise cut brownish orange (origin of color not tested) diamond weighing approximately 1.82 carats total and 30 round brilliant cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.44 carats total. 
Stamp: 14K. 
4.20 dwts. 
Estimate $ 1,500-2,500 

UNSOLD

Diamond Characteristics (graded in setting) Center
Color: Fancy Dark Brownish Orange
Clarity: I2

Round Brilliants Color: G-H
Clarity: SI1-2

Sale 451 Lot 106
* A Platinum, Diamond and Seed Pearl Tassel Pendant, consisting of an intricate openwork double sided pendant with millegrain accents containing 38 antique single cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.64 carat total suspending a fringe composed of 21 strands of pearls (origin not tested) measuring approximately 1.44-2.62 mm in diameter. 
4.10 dwts. 
Estimate $ 3,000-5,000

SOLD:  $6,875 
Property from the Estate of Rebecca Cook Schoonmaker, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania 

The total length of the tassel including the bail measures arroximately 50 mm, the pearl section of the tassel measures approximately 30 mm. All stones are present and securley set. There are scattered superficial scratches to the bail not readily visible.

Sale 451 Lot 8
An Egyptian Revival Rose Gold and Scarab Micromosaic Bangle, consisting of a central onyx plaque inset with a scarab motif micromosaic, the plaque measuring approximately 35.00 x 27.00 mm, the plaque set with claw prongs in a rose gold surround above the two row bangle bracelet. 
16.60 dwts. 
Estimate $ 2,000-3,000

UNSOLD

Sale 451 Lot 279
* An 18 Karat Yellow Gold and Tiger's Eye Bombe Ring, C. Vollrath, 
containing one high dome cabochon cut tiger's eye quartz measuring approximately 21.68 x 16.84 mm within a hammered texture setting. 
Stamp: C. VOLLRATH 18K. 
22.30 dwts. 
Estimate $ 700-900 

SOLD:  $2,000
Property from the Estate of Robert and Lois Orchard, St. Louis, Missouri 

This ring is an approximate size 7. The head of the ring measures approximately 28 mm from the finger to the top of the stone and 28 mm in diameter. There is no damage to the tiger's eye stone.

Sale 451 Lot 16
An Edwardian Platinum Topped Gold, Emerald, Diamond and Pearl Pendant/Brooch, in a winged motif, centered on a baroque pearl (origin not tested) measuring approximately 17.75 x 16.00 mm within a partial surround of platinum, topped with gold scrollwork and extending outward to the platinum topped gold wings finished with intricate engraved texture, supporting a detachable foliate motif drop containing a baroque pearl measuring approximately 10.90 x 8.58 mm, the brooch set with one square step cut emerald measuring approximately 5.90 x 5.70 x 2.75 mm, 20 oval mixed cut emeralds weighing approximately 0.40 carat total, and 25 old European cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.17 carats total, collapsible hidden bail allows wear as pendant. 
13.70 dwts. 
Estimate $ 3,000-5,000 

SOLD:  $3,750
This pendant/brooch measures approximately 3 1/8" wide and 2" long.

Sale 451 Lot 1274
* An 18 Karat Bicolor Gold and Cultured Pearl Necklace, 
containing 41 pink, purple, orange pink pearls measuring approximately 10.70-11.85 mm in diameter, strung knotted with a rose and white gold clasp. 
Stamp: 750. 

Estimate $ 400-600 

SOLD:  $563

Property from the Estate of Susanna Eva Wallach, Sarasota, Florida

Sale 451 Lot 78
An Art Nouveau Silver, Plique-a-jour and Seed Pearl Brooch, in a dual leaf design with curled edges, the brooch accented in translucent pink and green enamel, containing 10 seed pearls and two baroque pearls.
Stamp: 900 (maker's mark) (obscured mark).
2.50 dwts. 

Estimate $ 300-500 

SOLD: $688

The brooch measures approximately 1 7/16 x 3/4 inches

Sale 451 Lot 96
A Gold, Polychrome Enamel and Diamond Open Face Pendant Watch, Longines for Phelps & Perry, New York,
consisting of a 27.00 mm case diameter, matte gilt dial signed LONGINES, Arabic numerals, blued steel moon hands, light blue enamel bezel, the reverse surmounted with an openwork plaque containing one old mine and four rose cut diamonds over translucent light blue enamel on an intricate guilloche ground, stem wound and set 17 jewel mechanical movement with five adjustments signed PHELPS & PERRY, NEW YORK LONGINES W. CO., suspended by the openwork hinged bail set with rose cut diamonds from a white gold fancy oval link lavaliere chain containing three old European cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.06 carat total.
Case back stamp: WITTANUER SWISS 18K 1825942.
Movement number: 2273018.
19.80 dwts.
Estimate $ 800-1,200

SOLD:  $1,625

Sale 451 Lot 895
An 18 Karat Yellow Gold and Plique-a-Jour Articulated Hummingbird Brooch,
consisting of a pair of polychrome enamel plique-a-jour articulated wings, enamelled tail feathers with a textured yellow gold body and rotating head containing two round mixed cut sapphires measuring approximately 1.25 mm in diameter.
Stamp: 18K SPAIN.
9.90 dwts.
Estimate $ 700-900

SOLD:   $688

Sale 451 Lot 86
* A Belle Epoque Platinum, Rose Gold, Opal, Diamond and Demantoid Garnet Necklace, 
consisting of a central pendant with beaded scrollwork and bow motif detail containing a central oval cabochon cut crystal opal measuring approximately 21.52 x 16.43 x 4.37 mm, the pendant accented in the scrollwork, swag chain and pendant, one crystal opal drop measuring approximately 8.33 x 5.70 mm, numerous rose cut diamonds, and 13 round mixed cut demantoid garnets measuring approximately 0.95 mm in diameter, the pendant suspended by a paperclip and twisted link style chain, screw on the reverse for converting. 
Stamp: M.D. 

Accompanied by original fitted box signed LA ESMERALDA MEXICO PARIS HAUSER, ZIVY Y CIE. 
8.30 dwts. 
Estimate $ 3,000-5,000 

SOLD:  $5,500
Property from the Estate of Rebecca Cook Schoonmaker, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania 

This necklace is approximately 17 inches in length. The pendant measures approximately 40.00 mm in length and 30.00 mm in width.

Both the oval cabochon cut opal and the briolette cut cabochon do not appear to exhibit any crazing when viewed under 10X magnification. Both opals do exhibit superficial surface abrasions visible under 10X magnification. 

Diamond Characteristics (graded in setting) Color: G-H/H-I
Clarity: SI1-SI2
Overall Condition: Numerous stones exhibit surface abrasions and chips visible under 10X magnification.

Demantoid Garnet Characteristics (graded in setting) Color: Slightly Yellowish Green hue with moderate tone and string saturation
Clarity: Translucent with inclusions typical of this variety of Garnet
Overall Condition: Numerous stones exhibit varying degrees of surface abrasions/chips visible under 10X magnification.

For those of you thinking the two diamond trend is new - the Toi-et-Moi Ring  is a two stone ring literally translating to "you & me"  and  symbolizing the coming together of two lives intertwined as one.  Napolean gave a sapphire and diamond two stone ring to Josephine! 

Sale 451 Lot 91

A Platinum, White Gold and Diamond Toi-et-Moi Ring, containing one old European cut diamond weighing approximately 0.92 carat and one old European cut diamond weighing approximately 0.81 carat, the stones within intricate openwork basket settings.
2.20 dwts.
Estimate $ 2,500-3,500 

SOLD:   $3,250
The ring is approximately a size 6 1/4.

Diamond Characteristics (graded in setting) Measurements: 6.35 x 6.27 x 3.67 mm and 6.03 x 6.07 x 3.53 mm
Color: F-G / G-H
Clarity: SI1-I1
Overall Condition: Both stones exhibit abrasions concentrated along the girdle and various minor surface chips/bruises which are visible under 10X magnification.

AGTA Spectrum Awards™ "Platinum Honors" Winnners #AGTA15

Earlier I introduced you to the winning entries in the Summer AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards™ - now we have the photos for all the winners. Enjoy!

PLATINUM HONORS

Platinum Honors™, sponsored by Platinum Guild International, recognizes 

outstanding use of platinum in colored gemstone and/or pearl jewelry in the five 

Spectrum Awards categories and for the Best Use of Color and Platinum. 

Platinum Honors™ has added: 

Entry Platinum Honors – Bridal Wear under $2,500 (semi-mount only), 

Platinum Honors Innovation – Classical under $3,500 

and Platinum Honors Innovation – Day Wear under $2,000.     All prices retail.

Platinum Honors

Bridal Wear

Whether gracing the bridesmaids or donning the bride, herself, this category captures all looks coming down the aisle. Engagement rings, wedding bands, necklaces, earrings, bracelets and tiaras should be considered.

Ricardo Basta, E. Eichberg, Inc.  

Century City, CA
Platinum "Royal Blue" ring featuring a 12.00 ct. blue Sapphire accented with Diamonds (2.59 ctw.). The ring features a detachable 18K yellow gold "Quilt" jacket featuring Turquoise accented with Diamonds (.43 ctw.) and tsavorite Garnets (.16 ctw.). 

Entry Platinum Innovation
Bridal Wear

Whether gracing the bridesmaids or donning the bride, herself, this category captures all looks coming down the aisle. Engagement rings, wedding bands, necklaces, earrings, bracelets and tiaras should be considered.

William Travis, William Travis Jewelry,  

Chapel Hill, NC
Platinum band featuring blue Sapphires (.54 ctw.), cognac Diamonds (.18 ctw.) and colorless Diamonds (.18 ctw.). 

Platinum Honors
Business/Day Wear

Stylish, yet practical jewelry, for work, shopping or play. Entries should have simple elegance for a woman on the move.

John Ford, Lightning Ridge Collection by John FordGalveston, TX
Platinum "Mirror" ring featuring a 3.65 ct. black Opal accented with Diamonds (.69 ctw.). 

Entry Platinum Innovation
Business/Day Wear

Stylish, yet practical jewelry, for work, shopping or play. Entries should have simple elegance for a woman on the move.
Jill Maurer, Jill MaurerRaleigh, NC
Platinum "Verge" ring featuring a 11.19 ct. golden Zircon accented with natural colored Diamonds (1.23 ctw.). 

Platinum Honors
Classical

Traditional looks and timeless designs prove superior here. References to consider might be your grandmother’s pearls, a three-stone ring or an elegant pendant – all with a fresh twist for modern-day beauty.

Zoltan David, Zoltan David, LLCAustin, TX
Platinum pendant featuring a 35.63 ct. marquis Moonstone cabochon set in blue patina bronze on a strand of cabochon Moonstones (18.20 ctw.) and Diamonds (1.20 ctw.). 

Entry Platinum Innovation
Classical

Traditional looks and timeless designs prove superior here. References to consider might be your grandmother’s pearls, a three-stone ring or an elegant pendant – all with a fresh twist for modern-day beauty.

Lindsay Jane, Lindsay Jane DesignsPaso Robles, CA
Platinum ring featuring a 7.77 ct. Moonstone accented with purple and blue Sapphires (0.97 ctw.). and Diamonds (0.52 ctw.). 

Platinum Honors
Evening Wear

Jewelry in this category should fall nothing less of spectacular. Whether brazenly bold or softly subtle, each submission should strive for red carpet fabulous, stunningly chic or delicately delicious all with exceptional color.

John Ford, Lightning Ridge Collection by John FordGalveston, TX
Platinum "Electric Blue" necklace featuring black Opal (197 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (6.27 ctw.). 

Platinum Honors
Men's Wear

Men’s fashion is heightened by the savvy style of the modern man who sports jewelry. Rings, bracelets, pendants, cufflinks, tie and lapel pins, stud sets and belt buckles are just a few of the ways a strong man can express himself.

Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider DesignLong Beach, CA
Platinum and 18K yellow gold ring featuring a 8.76 ct. Maw Sit Sit accented with black, white and yellow Diamonds (2.27 ctw.) and tsavorite Garnets (.93 ctw.). 

AGTA Spectrum Awards™ is an annual natural colored gemstone & cultured pearl jewelry design competition. Here are the winners from the 2016 Summer AGTA Spectrum Awards™ competition.


http://www.agta.org/awards/2016Summer-winners.htm

PHOTO CREDIT: All AGTA Spectrum Awards™ and Cutting Edge Award Winner photos by Brian Moghadam Photography.

Recent Fine Jewelry #Auction at Bonham's Brings in Over $4 million....

Bonham's Shares A Few Of Their Favorite Things From the Fine Jewelry Auction

According to Bonham's, there was intense online bidding and a quick competitive telephone bidding throughout the afternoon, bringing the Fine Jewelry auction at Bonhams New York to a triumphant close, with sales totaling over $4 million.

Colored gems, classic designs, and signature pieces performed fantastically, and Susan Abeles, Vice President and Director of the Jewelry at Bonhams North America, said: 'Contemporary signed jewels continue to thrive in the auction environment. The sale was dominated by colorful pieces which were well received by an international audience.'


Notable highlights of the afternoon include:

✦  An exquisite diamond ring by Cartier, weighing 8.45 carats, which realized $293,000.

✦ Kashmir sapphire & diamond ring, made $118,750, almost twice the high estimate.

✦  A late Art Deco ruby and diamond bracelet (c. 1935), with a total diamond weight of 

                                               14.00 carats, which sold for $106,250.

  ✦   Sapphire (3.20 ct) and Old European Diamonds (6.85 ctw) brooch with a combined 
           weight of 10.05 carats, which realized $112,500: 9 times the high estimate. 

✦ Renaissance Revival suite of sapphire, demantoid garnet and enamel jewelry (c. 1920),   fashioned by Louis Comfort Tiffany, soared past its high estimate making $161,000.

✦   Colombian emerald cabochon ring weighing approximately 50 carats, surrounded by 
      diamonds. It achieved $106,250, over 3 times the high estimate.

✦  A pair of natural button pearl diamond ear studs, each over 10mm,  mounted in 18k white gold.  Accompanied by GIA report #5161602019, dated October 8, 2014, stating: "the pearls are of natural origin, saltwater, no indications of treatment."   Achieved  $45,000

Earlier in December.... there seemed to be a resurgence of ruby-adorned jewelry at the London auction...a fact quickly confirmed with the crazy results from a pair of Art Deco, ruby and diamond clip brooches made by Cartier around 1930. They achieved an astonishing £482,500 after pre-sale estimates of £80,000-120,00 - followed by two ruby rings which far exceeded their pre-sale estimates.

First, a single-stone ring set with a large Burmese ruby, fashioned by the renowned jewelers Van Cleef & Arples in 1923, rose past the estimate of £80,000-100,000 to make $548,163. 

Burmese ruby, in a setting made around 1930, and set with a cushion-cut stone weighing over 6 carats, fetched $548,462  after it was set to achieve £50,000-80,000.

As if the bidders needed more convincing, a beautiful belle époque ruby and diamond necklace made more than twice its top estimate, selling for $191,688, while another pair of Art Deco, ruby and diamond pendent earrings by Cartier more than doubled their lower estimate to achieve £72,100.

It was not all rubies, however, as sapphires also performed strongly, with a Cartier Art Deco sapphire and diamond ring making $323, 131, and an octagonal-cut sapphire and diamond ring realizing £146,500, twice its estimate.

Jean Ghika, Head of Jewelry UK and Europe, said: 'We achieved some outstanding results in the sale, particularly for period jewels and colored gem stones. The collection of Burmese rubies performed exceptionally well, proving that these rare gems continue to have an enduring appeal.'

It was a very busy December for Bonhams and the next Fine Jewelry sale in New York will be April 2015, and a selection of jewelry from the estate of Lauren Bacall will be offered as part of The Lauren Bacall Collection on March 31 and April 1 2015.

Bonhams, founded in 1793, is one of the world's largest auctioneers of fine art and antiques. The present company was formed by the merger in November 2001 of Bonhams & Brooks and Phillips Son & Neale. In August 2002, the company acquired Butterfields, the principal firm of auctioneers on the West Coast of America. Today, Bonhams offers more sales than any of its rivals, through two major salerooms in London: New Bond Street and Knightsbridge; and a further three in the UK regions and Scotland. Sales are also held in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Carmel, New York and Connecticut in the USA; and Germany, France, Monaco, Hong Kong and Australia. Bonhams has a worldwide network of offices and regional representatives in 25 countries offering sales advice and valuation services in 60 specialist areas. For a full listing of sales, plus details of Bonhams specialist departments go to  www.bonhams.com

#AGTA Announces the 2015 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Judges

AGTA Announces the 

2015 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Judges

”Each year, we strive to seat a unique panel of judges for the AGTA Spectrum Awards™, and we hit the mark this year!” said Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA CEO. “This distinguished group is uniquely qualified with their expertise and passion for colored gemstones and pearls, and we are excited to see the results of their hard work!”

The American Gem Trade Association is excited to announce its panel of judges for the 2015 AGTA Spectrum Awards™. The expert panel of judges all hail from different facets of the jewelry industry, and will meet in October to judge the world‐renown colored gemstone and cultured pearl jewelry competition, along with the AGTA Cutting Edge Awards™, which features loose colored gemstones. 

This year’s judges are:
Jerrold Green, Lapidarist, Reginald C. Miller

The tenets of Green's mentor, Reginald Miller, remain the hallmarks of his business today, “When someone submits material to you, regardless of its quality, treat it with respect and them with respect…and above all: your word is everything.” While the tools of his trade have expanded to include high‐end Apple computers, Green still spends hours of each day hunched over his lapidary table, painstakingly carving precious stones so that every facet will catch the light. Today, gemologists, importers and collectors from all over the world come to him bearing treasures and seeking his advice.

Myriam Gumuchian, Vice President & Director of Sales, Gumuchian

Alongside her, mother Anita, and her sister, Patricia, they work together to carry on a family legacy that originated over 100 years ago in Istanbul with the sales of exceptional colored stones and fancy diamond imports.  In 1979, the Gumuchian brand was created by Anita

and her daughters, Myriam and Patricia.  Myriam was the first woman appointed chair of the Jewelry Information Center, where she held the position for two years. The commitment for excellence has not gone unnoticed, rewarding Gumuchian with several design awards, most recently the “Award for Best International Emerging Brand” of the year from the Armenian Jewelry Association

Joseph Mardkha, Manufacturer, ColorMasters Precious Jewelry

In 1981, Joseph Mardkha founded ColorMasters Gem Corp. and traveled the world seeking to build relationships with stone dealers and cutters overseas.  Quickly, he established

ColorMasters as an essential source for fine precious gems and the company became a valuable asset to some of the world’s best designers, retailers, and jewelry manufacturers.  Today, ColorMasters specializes in each and every aspect of high end jewelry design, product development, and manufacturing while maintaining social responsibility.

Tim McClelland, Master Jeweler and Designer, McTiegue & McClelland

Tim McClelland grew up in family of artists and at an early age was struck by the versatility and permanence of metal as a vehicle for his ideas. All of McTeigue & McClelland’s jewelry is made under the direction of Tim McClelland the old fashioned way ‐ one piece at a time.  In 2011, McTeigue & McClelland made the decision to sell exclusively to their own clientele.  McTeigue & McClelland started to get noticed by the international fashion press. Pieces from their collections became de‐rigeur for magazines surveying the best in jewelry, including Town & Country, Robb Report, W Magazine, Elle, Martha Stewart, The New York Times and more.  McTeigue & McClelland, in Tim and Walter’s words has one mission ‐ “To make the most beautiful jewelry imaginable.”

Larry Pelzel, Retailer, Neiman Marcus

Larry has worked in the high‐end luxury jewelry industry for over 34 years.  Starting as the Sales Associate in Precious Jewels, he worked up Neiman's ladder to his current position of Vice President and Divisional Merchandise Manager, Precious Jewels. From Neiman Marcus’ flagship store in Dallas, he oversees all aspects of the Precious Jewels Division from buying to the renowned in‐house Design Studio to promotions and advertising.  In 2012, Pelzel was inducted into The Retailer Jewelers’ “Hall of Fame” by National Jeweler.  

Dr. Jeffrey E. Post, Curator, U.S. Nat'l Gem & Mineral Col., Smithsonian Inst.

Jeffrey joined the Dept. of Mineral Sciences at the Smithsonian Institution in 1984, from 1989 to 1994, he was Chair. of the Dept. of Mineral Sciences, and, since 1991 has served as Curator of the U.S. National Gem and Mineral Collection. Dr. Post served as the lead Curator for the Janet Annenberg Hooker Hall of Geology, Gems and Minerals that opened in 1997.  His areas of research interest include mineralogy, gemology, geochemistry, crystallography, and electron microscopy.  He has published more than 75 scientific articles in these fields.

The AGTA Spectrum Awards™ is the world’s premier colored gemstone and pearl jewelry design competition. The AGTA Cutting Edge Awards™ honor loose colored gemstones in everything from Classic Gemstones to one‐of‐a‐kind Carvings, Phenomenal Gemstones to amazing Pairs and Suites. The competition is open to U.S. and Canadian designers and cutters.

Photos from top - 2014 Award Winners:

Gem Diva Award - Business/Day Wear: Annie Fensterstock - Port Washington, NY

22K yellow gold and 18K white, pink, and yellow gold locket featuring a boulder Opal accented with white, pink and yellow Diamonds (2.55 ctw.).

3rd Place - Phenomenal - Jean-Noel Soni, Top Notch Faceting - San Francisco, CA

24.12 ct. color-change Garnet.

Best of Show and 1st Place Classical:  James Currens - J.W. Currens, Inc. - New York, NY

Platinum "Tropical Storm" ring featuring a 22.10 ct. Emerald accented with Diamonds (11.47 ctw.).

1st Place Bridal Wear and Best Use of Pearls - Anil Maloo, Baggins, Inc. - Los Angeles, CA

18K white gold drop earrings featuring 32 Japanese Akoya cultured Pearls accented with round brilliant Diamonds (4.43 ctw.).

1st Place Innovative Faceting - Stephen M. Avery - Lakewood, CO

32.68 ct. "Tsunami" Aquamarine.

2nd Place - Bridal Wear - Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney, Inc. - Los Angeles, CA

18K yellow gold "Something Blue" earrings featuring blue Opal drops (29.99 ctw.) accented with Aquamarines (5.03 ctw.), grey Sapphires (.43 ctw.) and Diamonds (1.10 ctw.).