Is the gem you are looking at the right "size"? by John Dyer

Guest Post - Reprinted with the permission of the author...

Many people come to me looking for a certain carat "size" of gem, but they don't realize that often this is not the best measure to tell whether the gem in question will work for their project or not.

Since carats are a measure of weight and not a measurement of visual size they can be misleading. Imagine looking for a one pound block of wood or a one pound block of steel. They both would weigh the same, but the block of wood will LOOK far larger because wood is less heavy than steel.

When you are choosing a gem it is very important to consider the millimeter size since the varying densities of different gem materials and also the varying depths of different cutting styles can result in a significantly different “face” size, even between gems with a similar carat weight.

Millimeter (mm) size is far more important for practical purposes than the carat weight. You want to know the carat weight because your friends (or customer's friends) will ask. But you need to understand the mm size so you know if a particular gem will work for the design and style you want.

So it is very important that you get a feel for MM sizes and what they mean in visual and practical terms.

Also keep in mind the shape of the gem, some shapes will look larger even if they have the "same" mm size. See example below. 

Due to screen resolution, etc. the image is not actual size. But it serves to illustrate what we are talking about.

For a more complete version of this article and printable PDF's with rulers, explanations and other useful guides to choose the right size gem please go to:  http://www.johndyergems.com/MM-Size.html

Have fun finding just the right gem for yourself!
John Dyer
www.johndyergems.com

The Ten Most Outrageous Jewelry Pieces of 2012

Welcome Sharon Sussman, Dir. of Products at Brilliance...

Who says jewelry design can’t look fab without a touch of eccentricity?

Jewelry expresses our innermost feelings and intentions. A precious gem can symbolize undying love, perhaps, or mark an important milestone. It can also reveal the wearer’s own personality and eccentricity. It’s no surprise, then, that more and more people are getting their inner freaks on via some outrageous pieces of bling.

This year, we’ve seen even non-jewelry objects get encrusted with diamonds, plated with gold, and generally made to look glamorous even if their original purposes were fairly mundane.

As you may have guessed, when it comes to outrageous pieces of jewelry, the rule seems to be the bigger the better, and preferably with references copped from popular culture, geography, and historical events. Many such pieces are unique and memorable enough to command top dollar in major auction houses.

Below are my top ten jewelry pieces from 2012 that stretch the boundaries of creativity and glamour.

10. The Izmir Necklace

Encrusted with round baguette-cut and pear-shaped diamonds, mandarin garnet beads, opal beads, amethysts, rubellites, citrines, pink and purple spinels, topaz and one 50.79-carat cushion yellow sapphire set in pink gold, the necklace is a study in luxurious excess. The piece, which took hundreds of hours to compete, pays homage to the Oriental Ball and the Arabian Nights. All that adds up to one awe-inspiring piece.

9. The Dentelle Opale d’Orient Bracelet

 Jewelry designer Victoire de Castellane went all out with the precious stone color palette to come up this brilliant piece for the Dear Dior line. It is primarily inspired by travels to the exotic and mystic Orient. It features a rich opalescent center radiating with meticulously set clusters of diamonds, rubies, tanzanites, garnets, spinelles, and spessartites set in platinum and yellow gold.

The Dentelle Opale d'Orient Bracelet is a far cry from the designer's previous work for the My Dior collection, which featured a predominantly minimalist style.

8. The Wave Necklace

Imagine a vortex of glamour resting on your chest. Designer Harry Winston worked with a gorgeous cascade of diamonds, so that anyone wearing the Wave necklace seems to be dripping with liquid brilliance.  Featuring a jaw-dropping 60.4-carat pear shaped stone pendant, it is widely considered to be one of the more memorable pieces featured in the  Biennale des Antiquaires 2012.

7. A Drop Into the Ocean Necklace

Further inspiration from nature can be gleaned in this Wallace Chan-designed necklace.  The poetic name for this beautiful piece of jewelry does justice to the superbly crafted 379.21-carat aquamarine pendant, plus diamonds and sapphires done in streaming rivulets. The designer takes inspiration from Eastern philosophies and aesthetics, and is the only Asian to be featured in the 2012 Biennale des Antiquaires.

6.  The Boucheron Mosaique Delilah Necklace

This is a mosaic neck piece made up of an astounding 26.89-carat pink pear-shaped morganite, 112.88-carat 921 pink sapphires, 50-carat 409 princess-cut diamonds, 16.26 carats of 132 orange sapphires, and 15-carats of 118 yellow sapphires. Outrageous in its overall value and weight but decidedly sedate in design, the Boucheron Mosaique Delilah necklace is a study in carefully-executed, tasteful jewelry craftsmanship.

5.   The Cartier Platinum Panther Ring

Jewelry with a bite seems to be the Cartier premise with this fine, feline finger adornment. The almost whimsical design is set with 24.46-carat cushion cut sapphires from Sri Lanka for the panther’s “spots”. Its fur is made of encrusted diamonds; it also features the occasional onyx spots, emeralds for eyes, and an onyx nose. Definitely a roaring ring for the adventurous set!

4. The Piaget Hand-Knitted Cuff Watch with Diamonds

Piaget puts forward the kind of craftsmanship and design it has become famous and much sought-after for with this stunning piece. The painstakingly hand-twisted and knitted watch cuff features an 18k white-gold mesh, taking inspiration from, and paying homage to a similar design done in the 1970s. Set with 69 brilliant-cut diamonds and over 300 more diamonds on its face, the watch case itself is something to behold.

3. The Van Cleef & Arpels Aquarius Clip with Sapphires

The Van Cleef & Arpels trademark for seamless jewelry craftsmanship is highly evident in this piece from the company’s Zodiac line. Quirky yet professionally done, the Aquarius symbolism of the bearer of water is unmistakable, and will definitely add glamor to anyone born under this sign. Featuring clusters of diamonds, five star sapphires with a total weight of 18.28 carats, and smaller sapphires done in the Van Cleef & Arpels “Mystery Set” method, this clip is surely a better alternative to the usual birth stone jewelry.  

2. The Gangnam Celebrity Diamond Pendant

The irony of what could arguably be the most popular non-English language song of 2012, which criticizes excessive consumerist culture, might be lost on whoever commissioned this Gangnam-style diamond pendant from the Brilliance jewelry company. 6 ¼ carats of diamonds embellish this wacky piece featuring the now-famous horse-riding stance. It is a great conversation-starter piece, and a fitting, though pseudo-satirical, statement done in precious stones and set in 18k white and yellow gold.   

1. The Gollum Creature Ring

As far as geek jewelry goes, Lord of the Rings pieces are some of the most desirable. While most people would expect The One Ring to be the most noteworthy, that honor this year belongs to Badali Jewelry’s Gollum-inspired ring. The ring is available in both sterling silver and 14k gold. Gollum’s spindly arms and legs curve form the ring’s band.

Definitely an unusual, yet precious, piece.

________________________________________________

Guest author Sharon Sussman is currently the Director of Products at Brilliance, a jewelry company which specializes in certified loose diamonds, engagement rings and custom-made jewelry. A graduate of Touro College, she is also a gemologist and jeweler whose articles and advice columns have been published on notable fashion and finance blogs and sites. She can also be found on Google + and reached at sharon.sussman@brilliance.com.

VirtualBasel: Final Impressions

Ed wraps up this little "Social Media" experiment - as it turns out we weren't the only ones covering this show long distance - nod to Anthony DeMarco (get well soon)!

Hello one last time from the BaselWorld ether. As I mentioned in my last post, we were barely scratching the surface and it was time to close. I’d like to offer a final tip of the hat to my friend and fellow jewelry junkie, Robyn Hawk for giving me the opportunity to experiment a little with covering the show virtually.

At first, I thought I’d try to give daily reports about watches and brands that caught my eye. Then I decided I needed to give an overview of the show for those who may not have known much about it. Then it became clear to me that I’d never be able to do anything justice.

I’d simply miss too much if I took that approach. Nearly 1900 exhibitors, six halls – most with two or three floors – totaling roughly 1.6 million square feet, over 3000 press representatives, over 100,000 visitors (including the Governator himself, Arnold Schwarzenegger).

Credit: Altman Gadi 

And what did we miss?

We missed Hublot’s $5M diamond-encrusted Big Bang.

A friend of mine who’s not into watches but knows I am, couldn’t imagine who would buy or wear such a watch. I responded, “Who knows? But if nothing else, it’s a great buzz piece for Hublot.” Indeed, I’ve been seeing this watch pop up all over the internet, in social media outlets as well as the online arms of the conventional media.

We missed the Bell & Ross WW1 Jump Hour series.

Credit: www.clicktempus.com

Ummm… a great look, but WW1? As in World War 1? I guess, if you understand that it takes some of its inspiration from the pocket watches of 100 years ago. Still…

And we haven’t even mentioned the dozens of other high profile brands, Breitling, Rolex,  IWC, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre (who’s been celebrating the 80^th anniversary of the Reverso, the legendary Art Deco watch inspired by the needs of polo players), etc. etc.

I’m overwhelmed just thinking of all I couldn’t cover for you.

However, here’s a final impression of this year’s show...

Wait! Tools!? Did you see tools in that video? And cars? Race cars?

Yes, we were only able to scratch the surface of this terrific watch and jewelry – or jewellery – show. Maybe next year VirtualBasel will turn out to be BaselWorld Live!

A note for those interested in attending - next year’s show is happening a month later. April 25, 2013. The show does float around the spring calendar a bit, but I think the extra month before next year is so construction on the new halls has a chance to conclude.

Credit: BaselWorld

Maybe I’ll see you there!

A Little About Ed Estlow:

Guest watch geek – er… blogger Ed Estlow resides in the Northern Time Zone. A self-professed chrono-junkie, he writes compelling story-filled copy for his clients from wherever he happens to be. Contact him at Ed@EdEstlow.com, on Facebook (look for NorthernTimeZone), or check him out atwww.about.me/edestlow.

Virtual Basel: BaselWorld – Impressions of the Halls

Guest Post by Ed Estlow: Are you having fun yet?  Ed is back for day two at BaselWorld!!!  ...well Virtual Basel!

OK watch fans! I’m back for Day 2 of this virtual adventure through the horological halls of BaselWorld. Yesterday I promised I’d take a step back and try to give you an overall idea of the show.

BaselWorld is spread across six “halls,” or buildings set a few blocks from the east bank of the Rhine River in Basel. The halls are numbered 1 through 6, but they’re also named: the Hall of Dreams, the Hall of Visions, the Hall of Elements, the Hall of Sensations, the Hall of Inspirations, the… well, you get the idea.

These buildings are HUGE. Some are bigger than others, but they’re HUGE! And more interesting to me, they’re more or less permanently dedicated to BaselWorld. I have to believe other things happen there during the year, but this whole facility is purpose-built for watch and jewelry exhibitions.

I remember six years ago when I ventured into Hall 1 for the first time. This is the Hall of Dreams, the main hall where the BIG brands have their pavilions. There’s really no way to convey just how big these pavilions are. At a regular trade show, a booth might be as big as 20’ by 30’ – and that’s a big one.

At BaselWorld, the “booths,” or pavilions are perhaps 30’ or 40’ square (some easily two or three times that), and are typically two or three – count ‘em, 3 – stories high! Inside of Hall 1!

Source: BASELWORLD

The first floor of most of these pavilions are generally open to the public. The second and third floors are offices and meeting rooms. Open to the public? Yes, BaselWorld is a public show. I was fascinated to see the occasional family milling around the place, sometimes pushing the stroller of an extremely young watch fan.

Here’s a short video to give you a sense of the place:

And here’s another video to give you a little better idea of what you might be up against if you accidentally pull your camera out of your pocket:

Now, somewhere in those videos you may have seen an escalator. Yep, several Halls have a second floor. Up there, some of the less-well-known brands and the up & comers have booths that are a little more sedate. Single-story, but still nice sized, and also fitted with private areas for client meetings.

Halls 2 and 3 are given over to jewelry, and I confess, I didn’t spend much time there (although my wife did). Halls 4 and 5 contain more watches, including some high-end boutique brands. Hall 6 is where many of the Asian brands – both watches and jewelry – call home.

Evolving in recent years is the BaselWorld Village – temporary restaurants and bars set up in the courtyard amongst the six halls. When we were there in 2006, this consisted of a single semi-permanent structure that housed a small café. You could get a sandwich and a beer or glass of wine, and you sat on the concrete side of the courtyard’s fountain pool while you ate.

Now…  well… restaurants and bars.

OK! That’s a brief overview of the venue. Tomorrow I’ll be following blogs and tweets – the REAL VirtualBasel, and getting back to individual timepieces that are jazzing folks (while dealing with a root canal, but that’s another story).

I’ll be trying to give you a sense of someone individually wandering the “Halls.”

-------------------------------

Guest watch geek – er… blogger Ed Estlow resides in the Northern Time Zone. A self-professed chrono-junkie, he writes compelling story-filled copy for his clients from wherever he happens to be. Contact him at Ed@EdEstlow.com, on Facebook (look for NorthernTimeZone), or check him out at www.about.me/edestlow.

Virtual-Basel: BaselWorld through the Ether

GUEST POST:  OK - are you ready for a little fun?  follow the fabulous Ed Estlow (self avowed watch geek) as he takes you on a Virtual Tour of BaselWorld!  Ready?  lets go...

I’ve been lamenting the fact that I’m not in Basel, Switzerland for BaselWorld right now. BaselWorld of course, is the huge annual watch & jewelry show. My wife and I attended in 2006 and had a fabulous time. In fact, we left with hopes of attending every two or three years. Well, that didn’t work out.

Now you have to understand, I’m self-confessed watch geek. So for the last six years I’ve been frustrated and worse, taunted from afar. See, I’m on BaselWorld’s mailing list so I get updates and invitations every year. Just haven’t been able to pull the trigger.

Well lo and behold, last evening my friend and online co-conspirator Robyn Hawk offered me a chance to vent my pent-up frustrations in a positive way. Her premise? With social media, blogs, and online press releases, sitting at my computer might just be the next best thing to being there. So she asked me to sift through the ether and send her reports from Virtual-Basel.

Here goes… how about a little taste of Germany to start?

Glashütte Original, one of my favorite brands, is releasing at least seven new models. I don’t have enough room to cover all seven, but I do want to talk about the new PanoReserve. The uncluttered asymmetric dial on this gentleman’s dress beauty provides plenty of visual interest. There’s a standard two hand display with small seconds at six, sits to the left of center. A power reserve indication and panoramic (big) date to the right keep things in balance.

All this covers a manually wound 48 jewel, 42 hour power reserve in-house movement, contained in steel or rose gold, strapped down with genuine Louisiana alligator in either black or brown.

The stainless steel version with grey ruthenium dial caught my eye, but the watch is also available in stainless steel with silver dial, and rose gold with silver dial. Personally, I also think a version in rose gold and the grey dial would be a looker.

The next Glashütte entry is the Lady Serenade. Classic and feminine, with just enough diamonds to catch a lady’s eye, the Serenade offers a traditional dial with applied indices and decoration. The rose gold version features four symmetrically placed arcs of small diamonds set in thin lines of rose gold. This certainly kicks the looks up a notch from previous entries in the line.

The Lady Serenade is available in three versions of stainless steel, and an additional three versions of rose gold. You can add a diamond-set bezel to any of the six models.

The Serenade is strapped to your wrist via beige, brown, or tangerine (?!) Louisiana alligator or bronze satin to compliment the case materials and dial decoration.

Glashütte’s Manufacture Caliber 39-22 powers the Lady Serenade. The date resides at 6 o’clock, and the movement has a power reserve of 40 hours.

OK! How’m I doin’?

Unfortunately, we can’t cover every new watch this way and give you a sense of what’s going on. So stay tuned here for another report from VirtualBasel tomorrow, when we’ll backtrack a bit and try to give you an overall audio-visual sense of Hall 1.

A Little About Ed Estlow:

Guest watch geek – er… blogger Ed Estlow resides in the Northern Time Zone. A self-professed chrono-junkie, he writes compelling story-filled copy for his clients from wherever he happens to be. Contact him at Ed@EdEstlow.com, on Facebook (look for NorthernTimeZone), or check him out at www.about.me/edestlow.