Is the gem you are looking at the right "size"? by John Dyer

Guest Post - Reprinted with the permission of the author...

Many people come to me looking for a certain carat "size" of gem, but they don't realize that often this is not the best measure to tell whether the gem in question will work for their project or not.

Since carats are a measure of weight and not a measurement of visual size they can be misleading. Imagine looking for a one pound block of wood or a one pound block of steel. They both would weigh the same, but the block of wood will LOOK far larger because wood is less heavy than steel.

When you are choosing a gem it is very important to consider the millimeter size since the varying densities of different gem materials and also the varying depths of different cutting styles can result in a significantly different “face” size, even between gems with a similar carat weight.

Millimeter (mm) size is far more important for practical purposes than the carat weight. You want to know the carat weight because your friends (or customer's friends) will ask. But you need to understand the mm size so you know if a particular gem will work for the design and style you want.

So it is very important that you get a feel for MM sizes and what they mean in visual and practical terms.

Also keep in mind the shape of the gem, some shapes will look larger even if they have the "same" mm size. See example below. 

Due to screen resolution, etc. the image is not actual size. But it serves to illustrate what we are talking about.

For a more complete version of this article and printable PDF's with rulers, explanations and other useful guides to choose the right size gem please go to:  http://www.johndyergems.com/MM-Size.html

Have fun finding just the right gem for yourself!
John Dyer
www.johndyergems.com

2010 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Collection - Business Day Wear

Back to the AGTA Spectrum entries and winners...the "Business Day Wear" category is extensive and includes a little bit of everything...here are some of the pieces that I loved...

2010 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Collection - Business Day Wear

There were pins, rings, pendants, neckpieces, brooches, earrings...and bracelets - this category covered it all...

big bold gems...from the rough, etched and hammered face of the Lemon Quartz in Jorge Adelers rings...

Entry 47 Jorge Adeler

Adeler Jewelers

Great Falls, VA

14K yellow gold ring featuring a 47.35 ct. lemon Quartz.

...to the traditional simplicity of...

Entry 159 Robert Pelliccia

J.R. Dunn Jewelers

Lighthouse Point, FL

Platinum ring featuring an 18.64 ct. Kunzite accented with Peridots (.45 ctw.) and Diamonds (.83 ctw.).

Carved Emeralds were the choice of...

Entry 3 Matthias Haag Lother Haag America, Inc. Los Angeles, CA White gold leaf pendant featuring a carved Emerald frog (3.0 ctw.).

Entry 4 Matthias Haag

Lother Haag America, Inc.

Los Angeles, CA

Yellow gold pin/brooch featuring a carved Emerald Nefertiti (20.60 ctw.) accented with square Emeralds (.60 ctw.).

Entry 90 Katy Briscoe

Katy Briscoe, Inc.

Houston, TX

18K yellow gold ring featuring a 20.18 ct. carved Emerald accented with Ebony and Diamonds (.18 ctw.).

Just a few of the amazing bracelets...we can start with the First Place winner in this category...

Entry 532 Ariane Zurcher

Ariane Zurcher Designs

Long Island City, NY

18K brushed yellow gold bracelet featuring cabochons of pink Topaz (25.08 ctw.), mandarin Garnets (17.21 ctw.), Paraiba Tourmalines (4.03 ctw.), Tourmalines (12.0 ctw.), Aquamarines (2.96 ctw.) and pink Sapphires (2.69 ctw.).

Entry 286 Belle Brooke Barer

Belle Brooke Designs

Los Angeles, CA

18K yellow gold bracelet featuring blue Tourmalines

(6.16 ctw.), blue Zircons (1.98 ctw.) and Aquamarines (1.98 ctw.).

...and I really love the brown patina on these two bracelets (does anyone know this secret?)...

Entry 230 Armenta

Armenta

Houston, TX

18K yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver cuff featuring a 4.75 ct. green Quartz accented with white and black Diamonds (.50 ctw.).

Entry 148 Victor Velyan

Victor Velyan

Los Angeles, CA

24K yellow gold and silver with brown patina bangle featuring a 20.54 ct. oval star Ruby cabochon and natural colored Diamonds (3.15 ctw.).

Pendants in all sizes and colors - the use of less expensive stones is balanced by the carving, cuts and rarity of some of the Gems chosen...

Entry 285 Alishan Halebian

Alishan

Irvine, CA

18K yellow gold pendant featuring a 40x36x30mm dendritic Quartz, a 2.33 ct. pear-shaped spessartite Garnet and Diamonds (0.06 ctw.).

Entry 191 Mark Winters

Mark Winters

Klamath Falls, OR

18K white and rose gold "As the World Turns" reversible pendant featuring a 15.0 ct. carved Sunstone and a 12.0 ct. Moonstone accented with Lapis Lazuli (2.0 ctw.).

I am going to end Part 1 of Business Day Wear with my favorite ring...this is something I would wear...

Entry 206 Gabriel Ofiesh

Gabriel Ofiesh

Charlottesvile, VA

18K yellow and 14K white gold "Cognac Garland Orbit" ring featuring brown and white Diamonds (1.25 ctw.)

SoCal: 42nd Annual AOS OPAL & GEM SHOW

The American Opal Society proudly presents its: 42nd Annual OPAL & GEM SHOW Come visit the Biggest Opal Show in the USA!!! WHAT: * Dozens of Opal and Gem Dealers from around the USA and Australia. * Rough and Cut Opals, Opal Jewelry, other gemstones, books, tools, etc. * Huge Raffle with many prizes of opals, gemstones, jewelry, lapidary tools, etc. * Free Seminars on opals, jewelry making, mining and more on Saturday and Sunday. * Free Demonstrations on gemstone cutting, jewelry making, etc. WHEN: Saturday, 10am-6pm, November 7, 2009 Sunday, 10am-5pm, November 8, 2009 WHERE: New Location! White House / West Wing Event Center 1238 S. Beach Blvd. Anaheim, CA 92804 Located within the Hobby City / Adventure City southeast corner of Beach Blvd. and Ball St. Click here for Google Directions ADMISSION: Adults $3.00, children under 15 FREE. Plenty of FREE Parking. One FREE raffle ticket is included with each paid admission. http://www.opalsociety.org American Opal Society, Inc., P.O. Box 4875 Garden Grove, CA 92842-4875 Contact e-mail: info@opalsociety.org The American Opal Society is a non-profit organization, educational in nature, whose primary purpose is promoting interest and knowledge of the precious gemopal.

Call For Entry: AGTA Cutting Edge Awards...

Lazy Link Love - Learn About Gems

Learn about Gems:
Bob's Rock Shop http://www.rockhounds.com/rockshop/table.shtml
The Image - Gem Gallery http://www.theimage.com/gemstone/
Gemology Online http://gemologyonline.com/
The Gemology Project http://gemologyproject.com/wiki/index.php?title=Home
International Gem Society http://www.gemsociety.org/
The Mineralogical Record http://www.minrec.org/
Earlham College - Geology 211 http://www.earlham.edu/~griffel/web/gems.htm
American Gem Society http://www.americangemsociety.org/jewelrybuying.htm
The Quartz Page http://www.quartzpage.de/index.html
Gram Faceters http://www.faceters.com/
International School of Gemology http://www.yourgemologist.com
Gem by Gem - ICA http://www.gemstone.org/gem-by-gem/english/
AGTA - Add More Color To Your Life http://www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com/
Mineral Galleries http://www.galleries.com/minerals/by-name.htm
Mindat -Mineralogical Database http://www.mindat.org/
JTV: Learning Library http://snipurl.com/gaqss [learning_jewelrytelevision_com]

Sunday - Lazy Link Love....

Photo Credit: tanzanite_10ct_03 Super Gem from babarara on Flickr.com




Lazy Link Love...

Feeling a little lazy on this warm Sunday afternoon - so I thought I would show a little Link Love to some of my favorite resources...

Some great info about and examples of Colored Stones:

MUNSTEINER http://www.munsteiner-cut.de/

The Opal Society http://www.opalsociety.org/

AGTA http://www.agta.org/

Jewelry Television :
The Vault http://www.jewelrytelevision.com/vault
The Learning Library http://learning.jewelrytelevision.com/

Tutorials:

Eni Oken & Friends' Jewelry Lessons http://www.jewelrylessons.com/

Hans Meevis http://www.meevis.com/Jewelry-making-class-list.htm


Diamonds:

Rio Tinto http://www.riotintodiamonds.com/

Kimberly Process http://www.kimberleyprocess.com/


OKAY - have fun exploring these great sites and I'll see ya next time - going out to enjoy the sun!

Gemology Online

GemologyOnline.com is an interactive gemmological resource dedicated to a better understanding of the relationship between man and gemstones! We explore not only themineralogical aspects of gemstones but also their lore and legend. Our main intent is to offer credible information. We will attempt to answer any questions relating to gems and jewelry that you may have.

Gemology Online Is:

• Book Shop: this is a great selection of books that will assist the layman as well as the gemology student.


• Gems 101: is an alphabetical listing of gems; their chemical, physical and optical properties, as well as treatments, and the stories and lore of the gem.


• Gemology Online Forum: CLICK HERE to go directly to the Gemology Online FORUM ask your questions directly to gemology experts from around the world

WHO IS GEMOLOGY ONLINE?

Barbra Voltaire, F.G.G., G.G.Graduate Gemologist/Geologist
I have worked as a gemologist, fine jewelry designer and appraiser for the last 30 years. The more I learn scientifically about gemstones, the more I realize that the mesmerizing qualities that certain gems possess, can only be described as magic. Gemology, is more than the science of gemstones. It helps us understand the history of mankind. There is a close parallel between the talisman of ancient man and the jewelry of modern times. The concept of invoking and conjuring superhuman forces has been replaced by the belief that money can buy them. Precious stones remain talismans of power!

Graduate Gemologist; Diploma received from the Deutsche Gemmologische Gesselschaft in residence at Idar-Oberstein, Germany

Graduate Gemologist; Diploma received from the Gemological Institute of America in residence at Santa Monica

GIA Alumni and Board Member
National Association of Jewelry Appraisers, Member
Accredited Gemologists of America Accredited Senior Gemologist
The American Society of Jewelry Historians, Member

Info at the tip of your fingers - just take a minute and check out the Malachite page:

http://www.gemologyonline.com/malachite.html

Or the Online Forum: http://gemologyonline.com/Forum/phpBB2/index.php

Thoughts Turn To Awards - Spectrum Awards

GIA Open House - September 12th

http://www.gia.edu/


It's not too late to make plans to attend the GIA Jewelry Career Fair and Open House at the Carlsbad, California, campus on Sept. 12.


Career Fair, the gem and jewelry industry's premier recruiting event, attracts up to 1,000 job seekers and prominent jewelry companies looking for new employees.


GIA will also host its annual Open House, where visitors are invited to explore the historic and educational exhibits on display throughout the campus.

You'll be the first to see the "Balboa Park Carousel Egg," a replica of an 1890s carousel that will be unveiled at Career Fair. The objet d'art, reminiscent of decorative eggs by Peter Carl Fabergé, sits atop a music box that plays songs from the era.

The "Balboa Park Carousel Egg" is the centerpiece of the Facets of GIA exhibit, which portrays the mission and history of the Institute and features more than 30 pieces of gems and jewelry.

Platinum, gold and jewels make up the "Balboa Park Carousel Egg," which weighs nearly 80 pounds and contains more than 4,000 parts, including detailed paintings and molded carousel animals.

Classroom demonstrations will also take place throughout the day so visitors can learn more about gemology.

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This is a wonderful excuse to take a drive down to Carlsbad - GIA is located on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Coast...the view is almost as dazzling as the gem treats inside.

Call GIA and arrange for a docent to tour you through their amazing facility and collection - anytime: 800-421-7250

Photos by Kevin Schumacher.

The Robert Bentley Company

http://robertbentleygemstones.com

At the Tucson Gem Show each year when the AGTA Show opens my first stop – ALWAYS...The Robert Bentley Company Booth. He has all the cut stones and druzys that other booths have BUT his are in innovative stones and great, bold shapes!

But I think what I look for from this company is “new trends”, especially in beads. Two years ago Bentley introduced some of the most fabulous rough finished Aquamarine – last year the trend was picked up by other “gem bead” companies. Unfortunately they aren’t done in the same way, with the same attention to detail and don’t make the statement that the Bentley beads do!

This is Robert Bentley...

The Man

Robert Bentley began his love affair with gemstones while accompanying his grandfather to rock hound meetings in the 1950’s. He graduated from Pratt Institute in 1972 with a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree in painting. While he continued to paint and sculpt (he still does today), his fascination with gemstones took precedence and The Robert Bentley Company showroom was opened in New York City in 1994.

Within the environment of The Robert Bentley Company’s extensive inventory of the best quality, best cut colored stones available today, Robert functions as a collaborator, instigator, and cohort within the jeweler’s design process, integrating his extensive knowledge and experience in gemology with an artist’s sensibility.

The Company

For nearly twenty years, The Robert Bentley Company has been working with an international community of talented stone cutters to provide the fine art jeweler with better, gem-quality colored stones. The extensive inventory spans a broad spectrum, from fine facets and uniquely crafted cabochons to natural crystal structures, distinctive crystal surface pieces, fine beads, druseys, and an array of phenomenal inclusions. The Robert Bentley Company is a member of the American Gem Trade Association.


Plate Cut Beads
From the more formal shaped plate cut (above) beads to the frenzy of the thinner plates.

Hammered Beads
Huge gemmy chunks of gemstone with a rough hammered finish – yet still clear, clean and polished!

Faceted Beads
These are some of the most dynamic beads – big beads with large free-form facets that, when used in a necklace would send light to the face.

Tubes
These – especially in Tourmaline and Aquamarine – are my favorites. They look like raw tourmaline and aquamarine crystals that are shaped, faceted (in long facets following the tube shape) and polished. They also offer this shape with hexagonal facets.

Lenses
Crystal clear round lentil shaped beads of some of the gemmiest (is that a word?) material. This is the grade of gem that usually gets sent to the faceters for use in indiviual cut stones.

RARE – this isn't just rare stones, but rare stones cut in beads! ...strands of watermelon tourmaline...



mixed beryl, lapis (polished and hammered)... apatite...

...and hammered Chalcopyrite!

Some Things To Keep In Mind While Viewing Website Photos...from Robert Bentley:

These images do not reflect our entire inventory. Aside from the selection of strands pictured we also carry various cabochons and faceted single stones, surface pieces and many other rarities.Our inventory is constantly changing. While we will add new and exciting stones as we receive them, it is always possible that we have stock which is not represented on-line. These images are intended as a guide, not a complete catalogue. If you are looking for something in particular please

e-mail or call us and we will be happy to assist you.While the images are kept as true to the original as possible, it is almost impossible to create perfect representations of these stones. Please keep in mind when viewing the images that most colors are less pronounced on-line then they are in person.

Contact Info:

Robert Bentley Company - Unusual Stones
E-mail info@robertbentleygemstones.com

It’s good to be “Included”…

…if you’re quartz, that is!

The “hottest” trend among jewelry designers today is the use of these lesser known gemstones of the quartz family. If we were looking at almost any other gem an inclusion of anything would devalue the gem. This however is not the case with certain quartz varieties. Due to the soft, porous nature of this gem other minerals are able to grow into it.

QUARTZ From the Slavic word for “hard”

Color: Clear, Pink, Purple, Blue, Green, Golden, Brown
Moh’s Scale: 7 (hearty, good for everyday wear)
Crystal System: Trigonal, Hexagonal Prisms
Chemical Composition: Silicon Dioxide

Macrocrystalline Quartz – crystals identifiable with the naked eye. This group is represented by most of the stones gemologists classify as varieties of quartz: Amethyst, Rose-de-France or “Pink” Amethyst, Citrine, Rock Crystal, Prasiolite or “Green Amethyst, Smoky Quartz (and the various browns – whisky, beer, champagne and cognac), Rose Quartz, Aventurine, Tiger’s-Eye, etc.

Quartz is the most common gem on earth…literally found in almost every corner of the world. Important deposits are found in Bolivia, Brazil, the Swiss Alps, Madagascar, Russia, the Ukraine, Mexico, Namibia, Sri Lanka, Zambia, Uruguay and the United States.

Rock Crystal Quartz is a transparent variety valued for their clarity while some are valued chiefly for their inclusion. Rock Crystal it is the perfect showcase for Mother Nature’s surprises, due to the amazing clarity of a gem quality stone.


Rutilated Quartz - the most popular of the “stuff in quartz” category...in this variety, golden needles of rutile are arrayed in bundles, sprays and various patterns inside the clear quartz. Sometimes called “Angel Hair”, each pattern is different, and some are breathtakingly beautiful.

Tourmalinated Quartz - this variety shows black or dark green tourmaline crystals in a thicker, rod-type inclusion. This can be in heavy patterns and sprays or random spikes. One of the favorites of faceters is to facet a round with a single rod of tourmaline running from the culet to the table – the optical illusion is quite spectacular.


“Stuff in Quartz” - has become a collecting category - today some of the more popular varieties include (pun intended)...Pyrite (gold), manganese oxide, form crystal "dendrites" (small branch-like), Chlorite (mossy, green), black Hematite (often seen at the “hub” of a wagon wheel spray of rutile needles), red Hematite platelets or Lepidocrosite (can give an overall pink or red color), green Edenite, golden Goethite needles, Epidote (thick green crystals), Actinolite...


...and my current favorite – Medusa Quartz, a clear crystal quartz with small Gillilite inclusions...named for their resemblance to the Medusa Jellyfish!





Asterism - the star effect that appears as rays of a star on the domed surface of a cabochon gem. This occurs when a strong, single light source reflects off layers of thread-like inclusions that inhabit these unique gems.

Chatoyant Quartz – if those threads align themselves in a single direction, much like the strands in a spool of thread, the reflection will appear as a single ray of light called a Cat’s-Eye. Other examples of chatoyancy in quartz are the Hawk’s-Eye, Ox-Eye and Tiger’s-Eye varieties. These are finely fibrous, opaque aggregate that are formed when quartz replaces the mineral crocidolite (a type of asbestos).

Throughout history quartz has been a jeweler’s chameleon, standing in for more expensive gemstones ranging from diamond to jade. Now, finally, quartz is coming into its own, allowing the average consumer the “luxury” of beautiful jewelry...with less common varieties beginning to show their appeal. Designers are using included quartz today for “high-end” pieces due to it’s “one-of-a-kind” nature.


I want to say a special thank you to Barbara Smigel for the use of the photos from her website: http://www.bwsmigel.info/

Nina Basharova

Find her at http://ninabasharova.com

Biography
Born in the Russian Federation and raised in the Ukraine, Nina Basharova’s artistic journey began while being exposed her parent’s community of actors, writers and painters. Inspired by the art and poetry of family friends Basharova merged her love of culture with her affinity for jewelry richly steeped in history.

She began her studies with fine arts while living in the Ukraine since she was 12 and went on to get a degree in jewelry design at the Art College in Haifa, Israel. While still in school, she was twice honored with the prestigious Sharett Scholarship of The America-Israel Cultural Foundation and had her work displayed in the Museum of Art in Ramat Gan.

She arrived in New York in 2002 and worked as a bench jeweler and assistant designer. Throughout this time she has been diligently creating her own collection, focusing on carving out her own original identity of hand finished pieces that blend together an artisan’s eye for craft and detail with a truly modern sensibility. Each one of the groups in her collection have been recognized by press and various jewelry competitions. A piece from her first collection “Milky Way” was included in the book “500 Bracelets” (Larks Books, 2005) and then again in the follow up books, “500 Earrings” and “500 Wedding Rings”, chosen among thousands of designers worldwide. Her work was voted by a World Gold Council Blue Ribbon Panel of trade experts for promotion for an unprecedented 3 consecutive years in 2006, 2007 and 2008

Nina Basharova is no newbie to jewelry industry with her designs that are far from traditional. Her rich creative concepts are rooted in her native Russian culture, through thorough studies of classic art, drawing and history, old world jewelry making techniques and new world's freedom of expression . Being so supremely capable to accomplish a design starting from it's very conception though the finishing touches exclusively by herself has enabled her to sculpt her designs to be of striking look, very practical, interchangeable and collectable. Coming to US in 2002 she has won 15 Awards for only past 3 years - among them are the highly coveted:

Geometrichemozioni 2006 by 'Trissinooro Consortium,Trissino, Italy
Diva Award by Women Jewelry Association 2006
Tahitian Pearl Trophy by Perles de Tahiti,2008
New Talent Award by American Jewelry Designers Council, 2008
...this number of awards is unprecedented in such a short period of time and Nina is taking the US jewelry industry by storm.

Nina Basharova has secured her place in the jewelry industry as an innovative fresh talent and an outstanding designer with 15 years of experience in fabrication and having developed her own distinctive style with attention to the detail and strong structural concept and unique recognizable look she is definitely the name to watch.

This is the piece that started everything...the image was submitted to the “500 Bracelets” book and was chosen by Lark Books from a field of 3,000 designers worldwide.

The Milky Way Collection

Simplicity and perfection of a circle with its endless associations and meanings—from timeless solar symbol to Plato's perfect geometric form.

Repeating itself upon itself it creates patterns that evoke images of raindrops, freckles, polka dots, cherry blossoms. Unified under one cosmic banner across the sky—the Milky Way.



__________________________________

Purchase Information:

MANIKA JEWELRY

11 Maiden Lane

San Francisco

(415)-399-1990

http://www.manikajewelry.com/

__________________________________

The Barbed Wire Collection

The Barbed Wire collection is the re-invention of a symbol of oppression and imprisonment into a piece of fine jewelry. The use of this brutally iconic structure to hold precious stones or pearls is key to the impact of this collection.

The term "barbed" also refers to a comment with double meaning. The polished golden wire whose barbs are clasping a beautiful stone is a counter-point to the usual associations, and an ironic statement for a woman who might choose it for an engagement ring

Design Statement
My designs are based on harmony of balance and contrast in use of colors and textures, light and dark, as well as the combination of high sophistication and street chic.

The goal is to transform every day objects into extraordinary pieces of wearable art. With the benefit of old world training in art, I am able focus my rebellious Russian temperament, my restless creativity and my love for innovation into a vision that transforms and reconfigures what I see in the world around me. I find inspiration in watching smoke rings fly or the ripples of rain falling in puddles, or merely staring at the sky. Stargazing led me to my first collection, “Milky Way.” I translated this feeling into fine points of light strung on ethereal threads through adapting the stones and textures into graceful and elegant yet highly contemporary pieces of jewelry. In my “Barbed Wire collection,” I interpreted the brutal barbs of iron into textured gold wire twisted around gentle polished stones.

I choose to work with bold colors and strong, durable structures to create abstract designs which are intended to appeal to a variety of personal and individual styles.

I am equally drawn to the unusual as to the classic, the bold and the elegant, the free- spirited and the sophisticated, the sensual and the strong. My pieces tend to be a mingling of these elements. I have sought to achieve a level of comfort and wear-ability, and pay close attention to how my jewelry will move with the different parts of the body—how they can enhance the neck, nestle in stacks on the finger, flow from the ear and sit delicately on a wrist or climb up the arm.

As diverse as my inspiration can be, all my designs share a common goal: unified pieces that sparks a recognition and originality in modern women to be able to relate to and that reveals the utmost attention to quality of stones, metals, textures and finishes.


Nina Basharova, Jewellry Designer
36 W 47 St. Ste.701,
New York NY 10036
Fax: 646-957-9237
Email: nb@ninabasharova.com

Nina Basharova’s brand is committed to use at least 80% recycled materials, whether in promotion or fabrication.

We encourage you to do the same.