Is the gem you are looking at the right "size"? by John Dyer

Guest Post - Reprinted with the permission of the author...

Many people come to me looking for a certain carat "size" of gem, but they don't realize that often this is not the best measure to tell whether the gem in question will work for their project or not.

Since carats are a measure of weight and not a measurement of visual size they can be misleading. Imagine looking for a one pound block of wood or a one pound block of steel. They both would weigh the same, but the block of wood will LOOK far larger because wood is less heavy than steel.

When you are choosing a gem it is very important to consider the millimeter size since the varying densities of different gem materials and also the varying depths of different cutting styles can result in a significantly different “face” size, even between gems with a similar carat weight.

Millimeter (mm) size is far more important for practical purposes than the carat weight. You want to know the carat weight because your friends (or customer's friends) will ask. But you need to understand the mm size so you know if a particular gem will work for the design and style you want.

So it is very important that you get a feel for MM sizes and what they mean in visual and practical terms.

Also keep in mind the shape of the gem, some shapes will look larger even if they have the "same" mm size. See example below. 

Due to screen resolution, etc. the image is not actual size. But it serves to illustrate what we are talking about.

For a more complete version of this article and printable PDF's with rulers, explanations and other useful guides to choose the right size gem please go to:  http://www.johndyergems.com/MM-Size.html

Have fun finding just the right gem for yourself!
John Dyer
www.johndyergems.com

#JWLV - John Dyer's StarBrite™ Cuts Take Center Stage at AGTA Las Vegas at JCK

When you hear terms like "Ripple Top" and Zig Zag it may bring school yard bullies to mind (yes I was four eyes!).  Then you add "Super Trillion", "StarBrite" and "Light Weaver" and you realize that we are talking about Super Heroes!!!!   Gem Cutting Super Hero John Dyer to be specific!

Previewing just a few of the StarBrite™ cuts that will debut at the show!

See you at the AGTA Show inside JCK Las Vegas!  BTW - it opens one day before JCK!

12.21ct Square StarBrite™ Citrine

2.23ct UNHEATED Square StarBrite™ Tanzanite 

The Multiple International Award Winning Gem Cutter will be available at...

    AGTA GemFair™ at the JCK Las Vegas Show

May 30 - June 3, 2013

Booth #AGTA 1204

#GemCutters - Intro to Gem Cutting and Recognizing A Well Cut Gem

I have been planning this series of blog posts since the Tucson Gem Show where I had the privilege of getting to know some extremely talented Gem Cutters...well I have finally found the time!


We are going to talk to and feature the work of some of the most important Gem Cutters of our time, but before we get started with that we need some information so we can assess the work we will be seeing in the weeks to come.


So - let's get this ball rolling with a couple of videos by John Dyer.  


First up - we are going to learn to distinguish a Well Cut Gem from a Poorly Cut Gem.





I love John's Tutorials because he is so easy to follow and can convey technical info with out losing his audience.


Now that you have the knowledge to chose a cut gem - lets look at a brief explanation of what goes into cutting a gem.





I will be featuring John Dyer and his work in a future post but I want to give you a little information.  I always want to know why I am listening to what someone has to say...

In a 2004 article for Professional Jeweller Magazine, famed Gem & Jewelry Photographer, Robert Weldon described John this way.

"John Dyer has achieved the highest pinnacles of success in gem cutting despite – or perhaps because of – his modest nature. Free of the bounds of arrogance and self-importance, he pursues beauty for beauty’s sake. Along the way, he’s won multiple American Gem Trade Association Cutting Edge Awards. And the 25-year-old has done it all since embarking on the colored gem path less than a decade ago.

“That kid is so young and so talented,” says Gary Dulac of Gary Dulac Goldsmiths, Vero Beach, FL. “When we met at the Tucson Gem and Mineral Shows just a few years ago, I was impressed with the quality of his work and his humble, open personality. He has come to know my needs and invariably recommends a gem that works perfectly with my designs.”

Other jewelers share Dulac’s enthusiasm. Don Fane, goldsmith for Robert Giede Designs, Menomonie, WI, says Dyer’s gems are easy to set because they’re perfectly symmetrical and that they’re so well polished they look exceptional in jewelry."

The very next year in 2005 John swept the entire Faceting Category at the AGTA Cutting Edge Awards...and has walked to the podium to collect an Award every year since.  John has through all the accolades, managed to maintain his integrity and humility, always willing to  offer helpful tips and support to new cutters.


John Dyer's Website:  http://www.johndyergems.com/
Take a minute to "Like" him on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/johndyergems
...and Follow him on Twitter:  @JohnDyerGems

2011 Gemmy Awards - Sneak Peek!

So excited to announce a couple "Sneak Peeks" at the recently announced 2011 Gemmy Awards!

First this stunning gem from the hand of John Dyer won 1st place in the Specially Cut gems category and tied for Best of Competition in the Jewelry Artist-Lapidary Journal Gemmys!

93.53-Carat Blue Topaz Gemstone | John Dyer/Precious Gemstones Co. Catalog

johndyergems.com

This 93.53-carat Blue Topaz gemstone features the Dreamscape(TM) cut.

...and from Gary Kratochvil, the Second Place winner in the "Artists on the Horizon" category...can't wait to see more from Gary!

Item: Sold
Material: Natural Oregon Sunstone (Red Labradorite)
Type: Top red with schiller (Medium Tone)
Locality: Oregon, USA
Hardness: 6.5 good for almost any jewelry application
Design: Modified Sun Drop (designed by Jeff R. Graham)
Cut By: Gary Kratochvil
Dimensions: 19.3mm long x 13mm wide x 8.7mm deep
Clarity: Red Schiller
Weight: 12.10 carats
Price:
Treatments: None
Note: Top red with a spray of schiller.

The Gemmy's are an annual award from Interweave - publishers of Lapidary Journal - Jewelry Artist Magazine and Colored Stone Magazine.

Awards are given in the following Divisions :

• Faceted Gems
  Stones must be flat faceted; concave or convex faceted stones should be entered in the Specially Cut division.
  
• 
  
• Cabochon Gems
  Stones must be any natural gem material cut in a cabochon shape, and must be suitable for jewelry use.
  
• 
  
• Specially Cut Gems
  Stones include those that have been carved; cut with regular, curved “facets”; engraved; fitted together into a composite; or cut using any other lapidary technique other than flat faceting or cabbing; or any combination of lapidary techniques.
  
• 
  
• Gem Objects
  Items that are either nonfunctional or whose function is other than use in jewelry including, but not limited to, faceted stones not suitable for jewelry use.
  
• 
  
• Artists on the Horizon
  Any type of cut or gemstone, cut by an artist who has never won a national/international gem competition

A complete list of winners and photos of the winning entries will be published in (from the website):

"Winners will also be published in the January 2010 Tucson Show Guide, the January 2010 issue of Jewelry Artist, and the January/February 2010 issue of Colored Stone."

Daily Jewel Editors note: Are you as surprised as I am to see this? Could there be a 2011 Colored Stone? I am checking with Interweave to see if this was a typo/forgotten update on the website. It would be so exciting to see Dave Federman's brilliant information in Colored Stone available again!

For more info about the Gemmy Awards and a link to the entry form:

http://www.jewelryartistmagazine.com/contest/gemmys/

AGTA's 2011 Spectrum Awards™ "Cutting Edge" Winners

If you read yesterday's report on the AGTA announcement of the Winners of the 2011 Spectrum Awards™, you know that the announcement included the "Cutting Edge" Awards.

Unfortunately photos of the winners haven't been released yet - so I didn't add it to my post. Seriously - what good is a list of winners if you can't see them....

I want to give a HUGE thank you to the awesome John Dyer - Gem Artist ! We have John's winning entries! ...the Object of Art entries were announced with the Jewelry Awards.

(BTW - if you are a cutter that won an award in 2011 free to submit photos to my email at robynahawk at yahoo dot com)

AGTA Cutting Edge Awards honor excellence and creativity in lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls, carvings, other gem materials and objects of art. Categories included: Open Category - Classic Gemstone Division, Open Category – All Other Faceted Gemstones Division, Open Category – Phenomenal Gemstones Division, Pairs & Suites, Faceting, Carving, Combination and Objects of Art.

The 2011 Cutting Edge Awards Winners

Classic Cut Gemstones:

A1 - Open Category Classic Gemstone - 1st Place

Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.: 8.04 ct. pigeon blood Ruby.

A1 - Open Category Classic Gemstone -2nd Place

Sailesh Lakhi, Lakhi Impex, Inc.: 43.42 ct. cushion-shape, step-cut blue Sapphire.

A1 - Open Category Classic Gemstone - 3rd Place

Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.: 6.66 ct. cushion-cut pink Sapphire.

A1 - Open Category Classic Gemstone - Honorable Mention

Gonen Abrahami, ABC Gems: 4.93 ct. emerald-cut Emerald.

A2 - Open Category All Other Faceted - 1st Place

Ruben Bindra, B & B Fine Gems: 9.59 ct. trillion-cut red Spinel.

A2 - Open Category All Other Faceted - 2nd Place

Ruben Bindra, B & B Fine Gems: 32.58 ct. oval-shape tsavorite Garnet.

A2 - Open Category All Other Faceted - 3rd Place

Ben Kho, Kho International, Inc.: 12.91 ct. princess-cut Rhodochrosite.

A2 - Open Category All Other Faceted - Honorable Mention

Ben Kho, Kho International, Inc.: 15.28 ct. ct. oval-cut Imperial Topaz.

A2 - Open Category All Other Faceted - Honorable Mention

Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC: 49.24 ct. Asscher-cut Aquamarine.

Phenomenal Gemstones

A3 - Open Category Phenomenal - 1st Place

Robyn Dufty, DuftyWeis Opals, Inc.: 36.73 ct. Mexican fire Opal cabochon.

A3 - Open Category Phenomenal - 2nd Place

Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.: Pair of oval Alexandrites (3.25 ctw.).

A3 - Open Category Phenomenal – 3rd Place

Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC: 15.0 ct. oval cat's eye Chrysoberyl.

Pairs & Suites

B - Pairs & Suites - 1st Place

Clay Zava, Zava Mastercuts: Suite of pastel Cuprian Tourmalines (127.40 ctw.).

B - Pairs & Suites - 2nd Place

Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.: 15-piece round blue Sapphire necklace layout (68.75 ctw.).

B - Pairs & Suites - 3rd Place

Hemant Phophaliya, AG Color, Inc.: Pair of pear-shaped cabochon Tanzanites (41.62 ctw.).

B - Pairs & Suites - Honorable Mention

Darrell Jang, Darrell Jang: Aspen-shaped leaves cut from a 15.09 ct. Peridot and a 11.15 ct.

Heliodor

Faceting

C – Faceting - 1st Place

(Shown Left)

Jeff L. White, J.L. White Fine Gemstones:

48.83 ct. square, cushion-cut Morganite.

C – Faceting - 2nd Place

John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.: 14.43 ct. cushion-cut pink Tourmaline.

C – Faceting - 3rd Place

Ben Kho, Kho International, Inc.: 13.78 ct. sunburst-cut Sphalerite.

C – Faceting - Honorable Mention

Ben Kho, Kho International, Inc.: 50.20 ct. kaleidoscope-cut Kunzite.

Carving

D – Carving - 1st Place

Joseph August Voss, Joseph August Voss: 220.30 ct. crystal Quartz carving.

D – Carving - 2nd Place

John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.: 62.64 ct. "Golden Reflections" Beryl.

D – Carving - 3rd Place

Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs: Carved white Opal sculpture (149 grams).

Combination

E – Combination - 1st Place

Thomas Trozzo, Trozzo: 66.48 ct. square, dimple, concaved, scissor-cut Aquamarine.

E – Combination - 2nd Place

John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.: 50.92 ct. trillion custom-cut Morganite.

E – Combination - 3rd Place

John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.: 9.50 ct. Umbalite Garnet.

Objects of Art

F - Objects of Art - 1st Place

Gregore Morin, Gregore Joailliers: Kokeshi Princess featuring white Opal (83.98 ctw.), Basinite (36.29 ctw.), rubellite Tourmalines (2.91 ctw.) and Diamonds (.72 ctw.) with 18K white gold and platinum on a base of silver, brass and wood.

F - Objects of Art - 2nd Place and Best Use of Pearls

Llyn L. Strelau, Jewels by Design: Sculpture titled "Who Are You" featuring two-tone gold and silver with freshwater baroque Pearls, South Sea keshi Pearls, akoya seed Pearls, demantoid Garnets (.25 ctw.), .20 ct. Ruby and cognac Diamonds (.03 ctw.) on a crystal Quartz base (242 ctw.).

F - Objects of Art - 3rd Place

Tigran Lementsyan, Repair Restoration Center: "Dandelion" featuring Quartz and Diamonds (.36 ctw.) with silver, 18K yellow gold and gold-plated leaves.

F - Objects of Art - Honorable Mention

Darryl Alexander, Alexander's Jewelers: "Got Paint?"- opalized wood with a sterling frame in a black marble base. The paint is Sugalite, Mookite, Turquoise & Onyx, with Quartz dish & sterling tube with Coral. The brushes are Onyx, Agate, Hematite, Quartz and multiple woods.