Google+ The Daily Jewel: 12/2/12 - 12/9/12


Friday, December 7, 2012

Your Annual Opportunity to Support Ganoksin!

The Ganoksin Project
The Gem and Jewelry World's Foremost Resource on The Internet. Open to the public, Free of Charge!


Each year at this time, we reach out to ask you and the Orchid community to help sustain the Ganoksin project. Ganoksin is run by a group of people who believe in and love what they're doing.

If you enjoy our efforts, then please feel free to show your support - Please participate in our $10,000 Rio Grande Gift Certificates Giveaway !
Rio Grande is giving away special prizes to members purchasing eBooks or making a Donation!
Each 35$ you spend on eBook downloads or as a donation to the Ganoksin Project entitles you for One entry for in our random door prize draw of $ 10,000 Gift certificates from Rio Grande.
4 lucky winners will share a grand prize pack valued at $ 10,000 to purchase tools and equipment sold online at Rio Grande
  1. First prize: $ 5,000 Rio Grande gift certificate
  2. Second prize: $ 3,000 Rio Grande gift certificate
  3. Third prize: $ 1,500 Rio Grande gift certificate
  4. Fourth prize: $ 500 Rio Grande gift certificate
An exciting shopping spree throughout the extensive Rio Grande's tools Catalog! Perfect for outfitting your bench or supplies box.
Now your Rio Grande shopping dreams could be made true.
To enter for the grand prize drawing all you have to do is to
[] PURCHASE eligible eBooks from the Ganoksin project website at - Each $ 35 you spend on eBook downloads through the Ganoksin project website entitles you for ONE entry in our random door prize draw of $ 10,000 Gift certificates from Rio Grande.
[] DONATE to the Ganoksin project - For every $ 35 you donate to Ganoksin we are offering one entry in the Rio Grande $ 10,000 Gift Certificate Prizes Giveaway

Rio Grande
 is your online source for innovative jewelry-making products, great service and technical know-how. Whether you are just starting out or are a seasoned professional jeweler, metalsmith or artisan, we share your passion.
Participation is open worldwide - The Grand Prize winners will be drawn on May 15, 2013
  • Gift certificate is good for tools and equipment only, shipping and any applicable sales tax for a maximum total of the gift certificate value.
  • Gift certificate cannot be combined with any other promotion or discount codes.
  • Gift certificate not valid for out of stock items or special order items.
  • Gift certificate will remain valid for five years from date of issue.
New Offerings 
Chasing Tools
This lecture deals with a number of ways of preparing tool steel to make chasing tools, hardening and tempering in detail. Making chasing tools from concrete nails, basic forming tools, upset (hot riveted) forming tools, forged spiral tools, texture tools, alternative and found chasing tools, examples of chasing tools, Lewton-Brain chasings and hammers, as well as steel theory. More information than anywhere else on basic chasing tools.

This eBook download entitles you for ONE entry in our random draw of Gift certificates from Rio Grande!
Jewelry Photography
This lecture gives excellent lessons on how to set up a home or studio photo booth to take professional-quality photographs and slides of your jewelry or small objects such as jewelry, ceramics, glass and so on. Taking your own quality images saves money and time. The system (not counting the cost of camera and tripod) costs less than .00 to set up. How to build a drop shadow photo booth, lighting, miniature spotlighting, composition, backgrounds are covered. This is a visual version of the small scale photography book and deals with digital content in ways not dealt with in that book.

This eBook download entitles you for ONE entry in our random draw of Gift certificates from Rio Grande!
Foldforming Step by Step
Foldforming Step by Stepis an introductory lecture, here as a pdf. It is a collection of step-by-step foldforming techniques organized by kind. It has a brief overview of principles and examines the tools needed. It shows how to make basic and tight line folds, pinched line folds, a forged line fold bracelet, Rueger folds, a ruffled leaf, a star base form, a basic T-fold, a chased T-fold (chasing on air), a rolled Heistad Cup, rolled Good fold, scoring and bending with a separating disc, hydraulic press folds and more. This tour of the main areas of fold-forming is an exciting glimpse of the world of fold-forming. This PPS is included in the Fold-forming CDROM, a massive collection of thousands of Fold-form images and over 47 procedure sequences.

This eBook download entitles you for ONE entry in our random draw of Gift certificates from Rio Grande!

Buy The PDF
Jewelers Bench
This presentation, based on a survey of North American bench jewelers, discusses areas that bench users have issues with, such as sturdiness, soldering, material conservation, bench height, wax working and addresses methods of improving efficiency and resolving problems. A comparison of the two main bench types, deep cutout and flat fronted is carried out with the advantages and disadvantages of both forms explored. Tool storage and layout solutions are examined and time/motion considerations discussed. Many vernacular jewelers tricks regarding bench use and tool storage are shown. Safety issues such as ventilation, boric acid and alcohol use and electrical are discussed. The approach is that of a working bench jeweler, a studio user, a goldsmith.

This eBook download entitles you for ONE entry in our random draw of Gift certificates from Rio Grande!

Buy The PDF
Bench Tricks Lecture
This PDF slide show with commentary has over 200 pictures of really great bench tricks, cheap tool sources, surprising ways of using tools and more. This lecture has been presented in New York and Tucson for MJSA and AGTA. It is guaranteed to show you new ways of saving money, making tools and equipment work for you and make you think. Save hundreds of dollars if you apply the ideas in this show. It is available on a CDROM.

This eBook download entitles you for ONE entry in our random draw of Gift certificates from Rio Grande!

Buy The PDF
A Modern Method of Creating Enameled Filigree Jewelry by Leon Hornstein - Complete Edition
This book covers the history of the ancient technique of filigree jewelry making and gives very clear instructions on how filigree is made, and how it can be combined with enamel. Filigree is a group of individual lace-like intertwined wires of gold or silver, soldered together to form a pattern. Topics include: tools and materials, making filigree wire and jigs, soldering preparation and technique, pickling, making filigree jewelry, gold plating and more. 110 pages, 67 b&w photos and diagrams, 3 pages of color, soft cover.

Complete Edition


Hinges and Hinge-Based Catches for Jewelers and Goldsmiths by Charles Lewton-Brain - Complete Edition
This book analyzes hinges and hinge-like mechanisms in a manner never done before in a single volume. We feel it will be a classic. Along with history, generics, classes of hinges, guiding principles, sections include: design, tube making, hinge pins (force-fit, riveted, upset, tapered, cotter type, tubing, square, threaded, stud), hinge types (basic, thick-walled, locket, bracelet, box, block, cold-rolled, tab, cast and milled), lubrication, catch systems, hidden, alternative, cast hinges and solving design problems. Good index and table of contents. 112 pages, over 200 line drawings.

Complete Edition
Part 1 Only
Part 2 Only


Lost Wax Jewelry Making: The Build-up Technique by Minoru Azama - Complete Edition
One of the few books available on wax modelmaking; "Lost Wax Jewelry Making: The Build-up Technique" by Minoru Azama, printed in Japanese by Kashiwa Hobby Books. 1999.

Azama process emphasizes building up wax as opposed to starting with a wax blank and carving away material. He uses this approach for organic as well as geometric subjects. The potential of this technique is unlimited!

Azama's work is outstanding, some of it so very precise and geometric that one would think it had been carved of hard wax. The book was written for students at the Japan Jewelry Academy, and Mr. Azama has been generous enough to write a complete English translation.

Complete Edition
Part 1 Only
Part 2 Only


Small Scale Photography by Charles Lewton-Brain - Complete Edition 
This eBook gives excellent lessons on how to set up a home or studio photo booth to take professional-quality photographs and slides of your jewelry or small objects such as ceramics, glass and so on.

Taking your own quality images saves money and time. The system (not counting the cost of camera and tripod) costs less than 60.00$ to set up. How to build a drop shadow photo booth, film types, lighting, miniature spotlighting, composition, backgrounds, surface understanding and image creation are covered. PR techniques are taught and sources are listed. The ideas shared in this set can save you hundreds of dollars in professional photographic fees and time.

Free Bonous: Digital photo notes

Complete Edition
Part 1 Only
Part 2 Only


Cheap Thrills in The Tools Shop by Charles Lewton-Brain - Complete Edition 
This Classic book is a loose, eclectic collection of short cuts, bench tricks and alternative equipment options for goldsmiths. Cheap tool making, conversions and unexpected sources for tools are all described. Sections include shop machines, tools, setting tools, soldering and more. Will save you hundreds of dollars in the jewelry studio. Lots of line drawings, lists and reviews of sources round out the book. A good table of contents and index make finding information easy. This was the first bench tricks book published in English in 40 years and led the interest in Bench Tricks in the jewelry/metals field.

Complete Edition
Part 1 Only
Part 2 Only
Increase your chances! Buy more than one!

Support Orchid! - Participation is open worldwide!
We wish you all the best of luck and happy purchasing.

Kevan Hall Spring 2013 With Accessories By Erica Courtney

Fashion designer Kevan Hall launched his Spring 2013 collection at his atelier in Los Angeles this week.  The star-studded event featured beautiful dresses bursting with rich, bright colors, along with gowns from his White Label collection. Check out the fabulous runway looks that were styled in Drop Dead Gorgeous® jewelry by Erica Courtney®.

photo credit: Faye Sadou

Platinum and diamond blue topaz Chinese Knot earrings
Platinum and diamond moonstone cabochon ring
Platinum and diamond multi sapphire bangles

photo credit: Faye Sadou

Platinum and diamond aquamarine teardrop earrings
Platinum and diamond aquamarine cabochon ring

photo credit: Faye Sadou

18k gold and diamond Goddess earrings with olive quartz drops

photo credit: Felix Foto

18k gold and diamond clip post huggies
18k gold and diamond flower cross bangles
photo credit: Felix Foto

Platinum and diamond skinny huggies
Labradorite bead necklace with platinum flower clasp

Day wear or Evening this is a stunning collection made all the more stunning with the addition of Erica's Drop Dead Gorgeous® jewelry...

Love the "behind the scenes glimpse"  Putting the Look Together!

Dom Pedro Aquamarine Unveiled at Smithsonian's Museum of Natural History!

Photo Credit: Jim DiLoreto

Pictured Left to Right: Donor Jeff Bland, Curator Jeffrey Post, Sant Director Kirk Johnson,and Donor Jane M. Mitchell unveil the Dom Pedro Aquamarine. The largest cut-gem aquamarine in the world, the Dom Pedro is now on display in our Janet Annenberg Hooker Hall of Geology, Gems, and Minerals.

The story of this amazing Aquamarine Crystal is one of wonder and adventure that is straight from an Indiana Jones  adventure!
In the November 1995 issue of Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist magazine, Si and Ann Frazier recounted the escapades of a record-breaking beryl crystal in "Rough Trip to Brazil: Intrigue and adventure surround the mission to spirit a giant beryl crystal out of Brazil."

From the LJJA article:
Besides having immense size, the lovely natural blue beryl was transparent and exhibited beautifully formed crystal faces, making it an exceptionally fine piece," the Fraziers share. "As luck would have it, the garimperos (the local term for these itinerant miners) dropped the specimen, and it broke into three pieces." Even then, the largest of those three pieces was still a record-breaking two feet tall and nearly 60 pounds.

In the Fraziers' exciting insiders tale, you'll learn why that unfortunate drop turned out to be rather fortunate after all, thanks to some unique gemological properties of beryl crystals, as well as the rest of the soon-to-be Dom Pedro aquamarine crystal's secretive escape from behind a bed in Brazil with renegade gem dealers Axel and Chico.

But that's just half the story...

The Fraziers continue the crystal's tale in "Fit for An Emporer," through its carver's months of "step-by-step thinking and not sleeping" to the sculpture's unveiling at the gem show in Basel as a 10,395-carat (about five pounds), nearly 14-inch-tall beauty. The Dom Pedro holds the record as the world's largest cut and polished gem aquamarine, the Fraziers share, after meeting the gem carver, seeing the sculpture themselves, and proclaiming it "beautifully gemmy . . . transparent . . . [and] clean except for one area of natural tubes near the top, as a mineral collector would orient it."

But not Bernd Munsteiner, the Dom Pedro carver and arguably the world's most famous gem artist, who chose "to orient the crystal upside down," putting its included tubes at the bottom of the sculpture, "where they lead the eye into the carving" and "add light, brightness, and movement." Munsteiner believes that "another crystal as suitable for sculpture as the Dam Pedrrough has never been available at any time, anywhere in the world."

Click through the links above for the whole story...and thank you to LJJA for digging up the archives for this great adventure!

Dec. 10th - Christie's Magnificent Jewels


New York - An exceedingly rare red diamond, a stunning three-stone emerald ring, and a 50-carat D color diamond ring by the celebrated jeweler Graff are among the star lots of Christie’s upcoming Magnificent Jewels sale on Monday, December 10.  With over 300 lots, this blockbuster sale offers the perfect solution to the age-old question of what to buy a loved one for the holidays.  Large colored and colorless diamonds, rare gemstones, natural pearls and exquisite signed jewels from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods will be featured in the day-long auction at Christie’s in Rockefeller Center, with estimates ranging from $500 up to several million dollars. The total sale, which is accessible for bidding in person, on the phone, online, or by absentee bid, is expected to realize in excess of $25 million.
“Since the start of 2012, this has proven to be a vibrant year of strong prices for top-quality diamonds, colored gemstones, natural pearls, and signed jewels at auction. Christie’s New York is pleased to present this expanded selection of fine jewelry that truly offers something for every client, whether your thoughts are on finding a special gift for the holidays, or acquiring a great investment-quality diamond for the long-term,” noted Rahul Kadakia, head of Jewelry for Christie’s Americas and Switzerland.
Per-carat prices for exceptional diamonds have continued to climb this auction season, spurred by collector demand for investment-quality gems.  At Christie’s recent jewelry auction in Geneva, the historic 76.02 carat, D-color Archduke Joseph Diamond fetched US$21.5 million, setting a new world auction record for a colourless diamond. It also set a new record per-carat price for a colorless diamond at $282,545 per carat, surpassing the landmark $266,000 per carat price achieved for the 33.19 carat, D-color Elizabeth Taylor Diamond, sold at Christie’s New York in December 2011.
In response to the deep appetite among collectors for diamonds of this caliber, Christie’s has assembled a superb selection of top-quality colored and colorless diamonds for this pre-holiday sale, led by a dazzling array of twelve D-color diamonds –  the whitest shade possible. The star of the group is a stunning rectangular-cut, D-color, potentially internally flawless diamond ring of 50.01 carats (pictured at left and page one, center).  Offered for sale from an important private collection, the stone is mounted in a platinum setting designed by the celebrated jeweler Graff, with two baguette-cut diamonds flanking the center stone.  This spectacular ring is estimated at $7,000,000 – 10,000,000.
For collectors of colored diamonds, perhaps no shade of diamond is as alluring – and elusive – as the rare red diamond. This season, Christie’s is proud to present a 3.15 carat circular-cut fancy reddish orange diamond  – the largest reddish orange diamond ever graded at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), and the largest ever to be offered at auction.  Exhibiting excellent symmetry and polish, this special stone is estimated at $700,000-$1,200,000 (pictured at right and on page one).
The diamond’s exceptional rarity is a function of both its intense color and large size; highly saturated diamonds in shades of red and orange are considered to be among the rarest of all fancy colored diamonds. The cause of their coloration is a natural phenomenon that is not thoroughly understood, but is believed to occur when minute quantities of nitrogen or hydrogen are present when the diamond’s crystal lattice is forming deep within the earth’s crust.
Very few red diamonds larger than one carat are known to exist. Among the largest is a circular-cut 5.03 fancy dark red diamond that is now in the permanent collection of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. The appearance of this rare diamond at auction presents a unique collecting opportunity for gem connoisseurs who appreciate both the aesthetic appeal and serendipitous nature of this true geological wonder.
In addition to top colored and colorless diamonds, the Magnificent Jewels sale features an outstanding selection of rare gemstones as well as signed jewels from coveted design firms such as Buccellati, Cartier, David Webb, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, and Verdura, among others.  Among the star lots is an impressive three-stone Colombian emerald ring mounted with an 8.51 carat cushion-cut center stone and flanked by matching emeralds of 4.04 and 3.94 carats, respectively (estimate: $475,000-550,000; pictured page one, right).
For devotees of fine period jewels, the sale features an impressive group of signed creations from the Art Nouveau, Belle Époque and Art Deco periods, including original designs by Réné Lalique, Cartier, and the late American jeweler Paul Flato, known as the original Hollywood celebrity jeweler.  A spectacular sapphire and diamond bracelet by Paul Flato from circa 1935 graces the cover of the sale catalogue (pictured previous page; estimate: $120,000-180,000). Designed as an openwork bracelet with alternating rectangular-cut sapphire and diamond bricklink bands, this stunning jewel is offered from a prominent private collection.
The complete e-catalogue for Magnificent Jewels is now online at:

AUCTION:  Monday, December 10, Christie’s Rockefeller Center (2 sessions): 10am & 2:30pm
PUBLIC PREVIEW: Friday, December 7 through Sunday, December 9: 10am-6pm daily

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

DeNatale Jewelers in the Historic Trinity Building

DeNatale Jewelers Unveils Its New Space in the Historic Trinity Building

On November 28th, 104 year old DeNatale Jewelers, a beloved jewelry institution in the Financial District, celebrated its grand re-opening in the historic Trinity building at 111 Broadway.  Guests marveled at the beautiful new space adorned with vaulted ceilings, ornate molding and stained glass windows in one of the city’s grandest buildings.  Since 1908, generations of the DeNatale family have maintained a reputation as a trusted jeweler, offering designer, custom and one of a kind jewelry.

Esteemed clients and friends mingled with jewelry designers from Armadani, Demarco, Lazare Kaplan and Gumuchian who displayed their stunning jewels.  Huge stained glass windows showcase the green and peaceful Trinity courtyard while providing abundant sunlight to make the gems glisten.  Among the attendees was former Governor Paterson as well as downtown officials. Guests were thrilled to see this thriving downtown establishment at home in an appropriately elegant setting. Ten percent of all sales from the evening were donated to the 9/11 Memorial fund.

“We are so pleased to have settled into such a beautiful, special place that is not just a part of New York’s history – but our family’s as well. We felt like it was fate to find such a perfect space in the neighborhood that we have called home for so long. It was wonderful to open our doors to our loyal clients and friends to celebrate our new location and our continued legacy,” expresses co-owner Jim DeNatale.

In this new location, customers will be able to experience the continued tradition set by the DeNatale third generation family led today by brothers Robert, John and Jim who are devoted to assisting their clients. DeNatale Jewelers prides itself on combining the latest fine jewelry style with good, old-fashioned values. Garnering top reviews from its patrons, coupled with an exquisite new space, DeNatale Jewelers is well positioned for continued growth and excellence for years to come.

An Historic Imperial Russian Jewel from the Collection of Mrs. Charles Wrightsman

Gorgeous Brooch in today's Sotheby's Auction...

Tuesday, December 4, 2012

GIA Opens Gem Laboratory in Japan

GIA Opens Gem Laboratory in Japan
Industry-leading diamond grading services to serve public, industry

CARLSBAD, Calif. – Dec. 3, 2012 – GIA (Gemological Institute of America) is now offering diamond grading services in Tokyo.  The Institute’s ninth global laboratory brings industry-leading diamond grading to Japan, one of the world’s largest markets for gems and jewelry. The new lab will accept diamonds for grading directly from clients beginning today, Dec. 3, 2012.

The GIA laboratory in Tokyo lab will initially offer Diamond Dossier® and Diamond Grading Report services for D to Z diamonds up to 2.99 cts. The Tokyo lab will also take in colored stones and pearls for any other GIA services. At this time, those gems will be sent to another GIA global laboratory lab and returned to Tokyo for pick-up. GIA plans to expand the menu of services offered by its Tokyo facility in the coming months.

“Bringing GIA’s diamond grading standards and research-backed lab services to such an important market will serve the public interest by supporting the Japanese gem and jewelry industry,” said Tom Moses, GIA senior vice president for laboratory and research.  “Our global network of laboratories enables GIA to remain at the forefront of gemological developments and provide the best possible service to our laboratory clients.”

GIA’s intention to open a gem grading laboratory in Japan was announced in December, 2011, following extensive consultations with Japanese stakeholders. The facility in Tokyo is GIA’s ninth global laboratory and the seventh outside of the United States. GIA has offered educational programs in Japan since the 1970s and there are nearly 4,000 holders of the Graduate Gemologist diploma, the most advance certification offered by the Institute, in Japan.

“Providing grading services to the gem and jewelry sector where they operate central to GIA’s practice,” said Mari Okada, manager of the GIA laboratory in Tokyo. “We are excited to open a laboratory in Tokyo to complement GIA’s long-standing educational presence in Japan.”

All gemstones submitted to GIA anywhere in the world may be sent to any GIA laboratory, ensuring the equal, unbiased and neutral examination based on the rigorous and consistent standards that characterize all of GIA’s gem identification and grading services. 

Those interested in using GIA laboratory services in Japan should call +81-3-5812-3215 or fax +81-3-3836-3280.

About GIA
An independent nonprofit organization, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), established in 1931, is recognized as the world’s foremost authority in gemology. GIA invented the famous 4Cs of Color, Cut, Clarity and Carat Weight in the early 1950s and in 1953, created the International Diamond Grading System™ which, today, is recognized by virtually every professional jeweler in the world.

Through research, education, gemological laboratory services, and instrument development, the Institute is dedicated to ensuring the public trust in gems and jewelry by upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics, science, and professionalism. Visit

Monday, December 3, 2012

From Slavery Comes Creative and Physical Freedom - Made By Survivors

Made By Survivors is a not-for-profit dedicated to the economic empowerment of women worldwide, addressing global poverty and marginalization of women. 

This information is a Guest Post by Dianna Badalament, Jewelry Program Manager at Made By Survivors.

Established in 2005, Made By Survivors empowers women who have survived human rights abuses including: human trafficking, slavery, rape, child marriage and extreme poverty, coupled with limited education. 

We train and employ survivors in a highly technical craft: Jewelry Arts. 

We also create opportunities for survivors to learn business and entrepreneurship so they can have long-term financial stability and transform their communities from within. 

In 2009, the United Nations Inter-Agency Project on Human Trafficking’s Siren Report indicated reasons why economic empowerment should be a priority in aiding a human trafficking survivor:
· It is what survivors often say they want and need
· Involvement in economic activities requires participation in a wider community    
  contributing to social reintegration
· It can reduce stigmas and also be socially empowering
· It reduces the risk of further exploitation

There is an array of inspiring news about Made By Survivors that I’d like to brief you about: 

· Made By Survivors’ unique sterling silver jewelry - affordable, quality, handmade, fair trade jewelry

· Made By Survivor stories of perseverance and hope from our artisans: Baby and Soma

· Founder’s story, a family radically changes their lives and works together to make an impact

· Why Made By Survivors is different from other non-profits:
> 100% of profits go to support rescue, shelter building, education and employment.
> MBS centers are designed so they can be independent, self-sustaining, and survivor-owned within three years of launch.
> Our survivor-metalsmiths are breaking gender barriers. Metalsmithing is traditionally a male-only profession in many parts of the world.

Inline image 1The transformation in the survivors as they move through our programs is one of dramatic improvement financially, emotionally, and socially.  The products they create are of great pride to the artisan-survivors and the best way to support them is to buy their quality, fair trade, handmade products and wear them or gift them.  Through MBS’s website, donors can also sponsor children for school or donate to support our many programs.    

Made By Survivors Products can be purchased at:


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