GIA Digitizes Cartier Rare Book Repository and Archives

Most important works in GIA’s 

Cartier Rare Book Repository and Archives Digitized

You may have missed the buzz at the beginning of the year when GIA announced their ambitious new project...digitizing their rare book collection.  A collection of 101 of the rarest and most historically significant books on gems and jewelry is now available to the public through an extensive digitization project by GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center. The important works, which are downloadable for free, include major studies related to minerals, gems and jewelry and span more than 500 years − from 1496 to the present. The debut of the collection online includes the digitization of the oldest book in GIA’s library, Pliny’s “Natural History.” 

Technician digitizing a book on the BC100 Book Capture system.    

PHOTO BY ROBERT WELDON/GIA

The library digitization project is central to GIA’s mission of ensuring the public trust in gems and jewelry and provides global access to hundreds of years’ worth of prominent works. The library will continue to digitize its catalogue of rare and unique books; an estimated 100 works will be made available to the public each year.

Highlights of the collection available for download include:

Pliny’s “Natural History” (1496): “Naturalis Historia,” by Pliny the Elder (23-79), is one of the earliest and most celebrated academic treatises of all time. Its content dates back to 77 CE and was considered the foundation of all science until the Renaissance. It is one of the largest single works to have survived from the Roman Empire.

Marbode’s “Book of Precious Stones” (1511): Marbode (1035-1123), Bishop of Rennes, originally wrote this manuscript in the form of a 742-line poem between 1061 and 1081, and only 100 copies are known to have been made. This edition of his treatise, called a lapidary, was the first Marbode work printed using Gutenberg’s process of movable metal type.

Haüy’s “Treatise of Mineralogy” (1801): René Just Haüy (1742-1822) was an ordained priest, botanist and mineralogist. His genius lay in his ability to describe the laws that govern the structure of crystals. After accidentally dropping a calcite crystal, Haüy observed its crystal shape from the broken pieces. His curiosity led him to study minerals and create a system to indicate the different faces of crystals. Haüy’s law is known as the law of rational indices.

Sowerby’s “British Mineralogy” (1804-1817): James Sowerby documented the minerals of Great Britain and drew hundreds of specimens. These images were printed using copper plates and then were hand-colored. Sowerby published his illustrations as periodicals sold by subscription. They were later compiled and sold in sets – fewer than 100 complete sets exist today.

Proby’s “British Mineralogy” (1840): Victorian gentlewoman, Martha Proby (1783-1864), created this two-volume set of commonplace books based on Sowerby’s work. Proby meticulously hand-copied selections and illustrated her books with original watercolor paintings, making this set truly one-of-a-kind.

Frémy’s “Synthesis of Ruby” (1891): The work of Edmond Frémy (1814-1894), a French chemist and professor, is documented and beautifully illustrated in this book. Frémy’s interest in synthetic crystal growth led to his groundbreaking work with Auguste Verneuil in growing synthetic rubies using the flux technique. 

GIA’s library, located in Carlsbad, houses a growing collection of more than 57,000 books, 700 journals and magazine titles, 160,000 digital images and 1,900 videos, and the Cartier Rare Book Repository and Archives – making it the world’s premiere repository of information on gems and jewelry. The library’s wealth of gemological knowledge and expertise is available to the general public, trade and scientific community. For more information, visit GIA.edu/library.

An independent nonprofit organization, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), established in 1931, is recognized as the world’s foremost authority in gemology. GIA invented the famous 4Cs of Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat Weight in the early 1950s and in 1953, created the International Diamond Grading System™ which, today, is recognized by virtually every professional jeweler in the world.

Through research, education, gemological laboratory services, and instrument development, the Institute is dedicated to ensuring the public trust in gems and jewelry by upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics, science, and professionalism. http://www.gia.edu/

BREAKING!!! #SomewhereInTheRainbow Announces 2016 Debut of Their Latest Event - Lapidary Artist Extravaganza!

Somewhere In The Rainbow is very excited to debut their industry first!!
Lapidary Artist Extravaganza 2016!

Dalan Hargrave's latest "Celestial Series" in Rock Crystal from the McEarl Quartz Mine in Arkansas. 

Ten lapidary artists, who have dedicated their passion and lives to cutting of the finest quality, style, precision of their uniquely different looks, have been invited and accepted our invitation to showcase their gems alongside each other!!

Buddha Blue Ceylon Sapphire, faceted in the early 1500 AD

Inspired by our Buddha Blue Ceylon Sapphire, faceted in the early 1500 AD, we want to showcase the lapidary skills and how this art has evolved, changed and become very personal to the cutters. Each artist is asked to use their unique style with a piece of synthetic blue corundum and "tell their story" through the gem. 

An extremely rare 2.65-carat Benitoite cut by Jeff Hapeman

If 600 yrs. from now, their gem is discovered and documented, what would researchers say...how would the world view the cutting styles, as we have done with the Buddha Blue.

Lapidary art is so critical to the truest beauty shining thru..cutters create gems from rocks...where would our industry be without the cutters?!?!

A collection of gems cut by Jordan Wilkins

We are honored to have these incredibly talented artists create a gem for this event!! This was offered as a voluntary project as an educational tool that we all will enjoy and visually be fascinated by...finished exhibit to be unveiled in June!! Cannot wait to see the results!!

This would be a perfect addition to my "Stuff I Quartz" collection....Moonlit Night by Darryl Alexander

Congrats and thanks to: 

Aivan (Morgan Pham)
John Bradshaw
Brad Wilson
Clay Zava
Darryl Alexander
Jeff Hapeman
Jordan Wilkins
Dalan Hargrave
Victor Tuzlukov

One of Victor Tuzlukov's stunning On-Of-A-Kind cuts....in over 500+ carats of Kunzite

And representing the ladies of lapidary, 

Meg Berry

Stunning bi-color tourmaline acorn was cut by Meg Berry for PalaGems

...and Lisa Elser

The Renaissance Egg reflects Lisa's Western take on the Buddha Blue and was designed to
reflect 15-16th century gem cutting.

Sapphire boules were generously donated to SITR by Douglas Mays!! Thanks DM!

Kunzite beauties from John Bradshaw

Aivan (Morgan Pham) - I love the way the cutter oriented the color zoning in this Amethyst Suite

#ChineseNewYear This Year, Think Twice Before Making Changes, You Need To Outsmart the Monkey! .#YearoftheMonkey

Info via Chinese Fortune Calendar

2016 is year of the Red Monkey . The Chinese name of 2016 in the Chinese Horoscope calendar is  . Chinese apply Five Elements (Metal, Water, Wood, Fire and Earth) into the Chinese calendar.  is in the Fire group. The color of Fire is connected to Red.  is the calendar character corresponding to Monkey. Therefore, 2016 is the Red Fire Monkey year.

2016 Chinese New Year day is on February 8, 2016. All Chinese Horoscope signs, Rat, Cow, Tiger, Rabbit, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Sheep, Monkey, Chicken, Dog and Pig, 12 Chinese Zodiac animal signs can be converted into Five Elements, which are Metal, Water, Wood, Fire and Earth.  Five Elements are the key to find your lucky times and places. To know your Five Elements is the way to live luckier, wealthier, healthier, happier and longer. Click here to search for your fortune

This sweet little guy is from Alex Woo

Monkey is the animal in the first of Metal Cycle. Monkey, Chicken and Dog are in the cycle of Metal. Our Chinese horoscope prediction combines the theory of Five Elements, the relationships betweens animal signs and the image meaning of I-Ching hexagram.

The prediction for 2016 Year of Monkey is based on your birth year, the Chinese zodiac signs. We have different forecasting method for 2016 using your entire Chinese astrology birth chart, which is required your birthday and birth time.

According to Chinese Five Elements Horoscopes, Monkey contains Metal and Water. Metal is connected to gold. Water is connected to wisdom and danger. Therefore, we will deal with more financial events in the year of the Monkey. Monkey is a smart, naughty, wily and vigilant animal. If you want to have good return for your money investment, then you need to outsmart the Monkey. Metal is also connected to the Wind. That impliesthe status of events will be changing very quickly. Think twice before you leap when making changes for your finance, career, business relationship and people relationship.

from David Webb

by Lydia Courteille 

also Lydia Courteille

from Marc Alary

from Elizabeth Taylor's Estate - gifted to her by Michael Jackson

Alex Woo for DisneyNature

#DesignerSpotlight Ilgiz F. for Bovet 1822 #WatchesToWatch #SilentSaturday

I know - for a blog that doesn't really feature watches...TWO IN A ROW!  ...and the same brand!

From the Horsemen of the Apocalypse Series

Fired enamel miniature painting in two collections Floral and Horsemen of the Apocalyse  by Ilgiz F.

BOVET 1822 is proud to announce its partnership with Ilgiz F and unveil the exclusive collection born from this collaboration.

http://www.bovet.com/timepiece/amadeo-fleurier-fired-enamel-painting-by-ilgiz-f-af43588-c12346-pu-p

From award winning enamelist ILGIZ F.

for more on the collection see:

http://www.bovet.com/timepiece/amadeo-fleurier-fired-enamel-painting-by-ilgiz-f-af43588-c12346-pu-p/

About BOVET:
BOVET 1822 is a Swiss Manufacturer of luxury timepieces whose origins date back to 1822, the year in which Edouard Bovet founded their workshop in the picturesque Val-de-Travers region of Switzerland. BOVET is renowned for its pocket watches manufactured for the Chinese market in the 19th century. Today, under the guidance and ownership of Pascal Raffy, a visionary with a passion for Haute Horlogerie, BOVET is thriving, manufacturing unique timepieces distinguished by their pocket watch inspired form. From extraordinary complications such as tourbillons and minute repeaters, to rare artisanal crafts such as enamel painting and fleurisanne engraving, each BOVET timepiece is brought to life under the practiced hand of a BOVET master watchmaker. With a highly limited production annually, BOVET seeks to preserve and cultivate the art and craft of traditional watchmaking, while delighting connoisseurs and collectors.

For additional information please visit:www.bovet.com

#BOVET'S New 2016 Novelty at Salon - the Recital 18 Shooting Star ®

from Press Release

BOVET Introduces New 2016 Novelty at Salon 

- the Recital 18 Shooting Star ® - 

5-DAY TOURBILLON, 

HEMISPHERIC UNIVERSAL WORLDWIDE TIME 

WITH SELECTABLE TIME ZONE AND ULTRA-COMPACT 

24 CITIES INDICATOR, HEMISPHERIC PRECISION MOON PHASE, 

JUMPING HOURS, RETROGRADE MINUTES

Before even commencing work on this timepiece, the technicians and watchmakers at BOVET 1822 and DIMIER 1738 Manufacture began by ‘forgetting’ their certainties and habits in order to deliver a more intuitive and innovative way of reading the time articulated around the two stars that define it: the earth and the moon.

Based on the principle that observing the stars has served as a basis for defining time since the dawn of humanity, Pascal Raffy and his watchmakers deliberately looked through the wrong side of their loupes. They were able to gain enough distance to observe the rhythm of the Earth’s revolutions on its axis—and of its elliptical journey around its star, or indeed the ceaseless circles drawn by its natural satellite, the moon. Metaphorically speaking, of course. Nevertheless, everyone undertook this mental exercise in order to transform the microscopic vision to which watchmakers are accustomed into a macroscopic vision. The simple change in perspective brought about by taking this step back helped the observers to gain an overview of the dance of the planets and to grasp its complexity with disconcerting clarity. The twenty-four time zones that divide our planet longitudinally, albeit in an abstract and arbitrary fashion, seem almost visible from such a distance. The daylight regions stand in logical contrast to those plunged into darkness. The inclination of the Earth’s axis helps us understand—depending on the season—the variable length of the day and night as we approach the North and South Poles. The moon phases can also be observed in such a way as to be instantly comprehensible.

As well as understanding the various astral phenomena related to the measurement of time, this newfound perspective also enables us to tell the time in all regions of the globe simultaneously. And it was precisely this broader universal vision that governed the development of this timepiece. Seen from space, the spherical shape of the Earth enables us to observe only half of the surface at a time. Thus was born the idea of representing the entire globe in a single hemisphere. A cartographer was specially commissioned to design this atypical and hitherto unknown 3D map of the world. Thanks to this ingenious solution, the Earth’s surface can be seen in its entirety, without changing point of view. 

A first hemisphere was thus chosen to represent the Earth and enable the reading of universal time, which is displayed in three dimensions at 3 o’clock. A hand affixed to the North Pole—that is the axis of our hemisphere—follows its curve. It can be assigned to any one of the 24 time zones selected by the user. At its tip, a concentric ring displays the time in the chosen time zone, while the name of the city corresponding to that time zone appears on one of the two concentric rollers indexed to the hemisphere. The time zone hand is another first. Never before had the manufacturer produced a hemispheric hand, with all the difficulties inherent in the high quality required. In addition to displaying the time and the name of the city corresponding to an easily adjustable time zone, the 24-hour ring that surrounds the globe enables instant reading of the time anywhere in the world. Simply follow a straight line from the center of the globe, passing through the selected geographical point. The tip of this line will point to the exact time in the selected place on the graduated ring. To link the hand of the second time zone to a specific city, simply press the center of the crown. With each successive press, the needle jumps by an angular value of 15°, representing the exact value of the time zone. This action also activates the rollers and the names of the cities corresponding to the time zones indicated by the hand are displayed in sequence.

The choice of two concentric rollers to indicate the cities offers the two-fold advantage of taking up little space whilst providing exemplary readability. The mechanism that drives them required great ingenuity. The outer roller displays 11 cities simultaneously, then makes way for a window, which opens an aperture to the second roller—arranged concentrically inside the first roller—and displaying the 12th city. This inner roller then turns in order to display the 13 subsequent cities in the aperture. The whole system is controlled by a column wheel. The system, which is easy to use and to read, also required great ingenuity and demands extremely precise adjustments. The tension of each spring is perfectly calibrated for a flawless, reliable operation. To protect these settings and the entire mechanism, a ‘constant force’ correction was devised for which a patent was filed. When the user activates the corrector, the pressure of their finger can vary substantially from individual to individual. With a traditional system, the entire correction mechanism absorbs the pressure applied. But in the new correction system, the correction is transmitted to the mechanism when the user releases the pressure. It is thus the spring-loaded correction that transmits a measured and constant energy to the entire mechanism. This is in turn protected from excess pressure, for optimal adjustment and reliability in the long-term. The cylindrical form and engraving of the city names make for a particularly exquisite decoration. And to enhance their readability still further, the rollers are treated in black rhodium while the engraved names of the cities are lacquered in white. A single hemisphere is therefore sufficient to simultaneously display the exact time anywhere in the world. This information and its representation make it one of the most useful complications in existence.

This new perspective on the Earth and universal time also enables the moon to be observed. So it seemed self evident to complement universal time with a moon phase indicator, and entirely consistent to represent the moon correspondingly, in the form of a hemisphere. Two circular apertures follow the curve of this lunar globe and indicate the age of the moon as seen from the northern and southern hemispheres respectively.

The moon and the starry sky succeed each other in both windows and, although unusual, this representation of the time is both realistic and intuitive. The moon phase indicator is of course driven by a highly precise mechanism that only requires correction by one day every 122 years.

The hemispherical representation of universal time and that of the moon phases requires a particular construction in order to meet the qualitative and aesthetic norms that are the hallmarks of BOVET 1822. Each hemisphere is therefore machined in a single piece and their surfaces engraved with the correct relief. The oceans are then filled with luminescent blue material. The craters on the moon are all in white luminous material while the sky and space glow a deep blue in the darkness.

A common solution was found for both these constraints. On the one hand, these hemispheres had to move freely and with optimal performance, so as not to influence the impeccable chronometry of the timepiece. On the other hand, the watchmakers wanted to avoid the use of a pivot around the central axis for esthetic reasons, as well as the need to extricate the pivot from the time zone hand at the Earth’s Pole. The original and patented mechanism devised to meet these constraints is composed of three adjustable ruby runners arranged around the exterior of the hemispheres. Enthusiasts will no doubt appreciate and even feel the incredible results of this system.

These two hemispheres occupy the space at 3 o’clock for universal time and at 9 o’clock for the moon phase indicator. Logically enough, the watchmakers used the space at 12 o’clock to display the hours and minutes and the power reserve. They once again returned to their unusual viewing angle to devise an indicator as natural and intuitive as the one referred to earlier. Several strata were superimposed to evoke a third hemisphere dominating the first two with all the symmetry and balance that is so dear to the House.

As near to the mainplate as possible, a flat sapphire disc displays the hours, which are revealed when positioned on a lacquered plate. This digital display makes for easy and immediate reading of the time. In the center of the display, a curved dial displays the exceptional five-day power reserve. A third stratum dominates this ensemble. This section indicates the minutes by means of a retrograde hand. The combination of jumping hours and retrograde minutes raises the technical problem of the synchronization of instantaneous jumps—a complication perfectly mastered inhouse and which has already met with resounding success in other timepieces in the collection. As usual, the dials were manufactured in-house. The craftsmen at BOVET 1822 demonstrate the full extent of their talent in the dials of this Shooting Star®. The juxtaposed surfaces of the curved dials result in a perfect surface, whether in white or in aventurine!

The Shooting Star® Tourbillon is perfectly designed for travel because the corrector enables the hour disk to be adjusted without affecting the minutes, seconds, universal time or indexed time zone. The pushpiece is simply pressed and the watch is easily readjusted to the latest time zone being visited.

To drive all of the complications, the two barrels generate five days of power reserve, all controlled by a tourbillon balance oscillating at 21,600 vph. Three blued masses are positioned on the golden serge, inspired by the shape of the arches that adorned the balances of BOVET pocket watches in the 19th century. The DIMIER escapement and its specific centering guarantee exemplary performance. Of course, like all components used in the manufacture of BOVET movements, the Shooting Star® is regulated by a hair spring manufactured in the in-house workshops— an art mastered by fewer than ten watchmaking companies around the world. Performing each of its revolutions in one minute, the tourbillon features a triple seconds-hand, unusually placed under the tourbillon and following a subtly tampoprinted graduation inside the crystal, for a clear and original display.

The decoration of the movement of this Shooting Star® Tourbillon perfectly matches its originality, technical complexity and innovations. An entirely hand-engraved constellation of stars extends across the entire surface of the movement. Like many other symbols, a moon phase is entirely represented on the back, with captivating poetry. On the same side, two entirely hand-engraved hemispheres evoke the spherical nature of the terrestrial and lunar globes. The carriage and tourbillon bridges are also entirely hand-engraved, despite their delicate nature and the tiny amount of surface area available.

The technical intricacy of this spatial vision of time inspired the technicians and watchmakers at BOVET 1882 and its DIMIER 1738 Manufacture to devise a movement based on resolutely innovative methods, which led to the filing of two patents. This approach led to a totally original and modern architecture that remains firmly rooted in the values and demands of craftsmanship and high watchmaking that are the essence of BOVET. Thus, the incline that describes the movement between the top of the minutes dial and the tourbillon, and the use of the hemispheres, naturally necessitated a new direction for the design of the case which is completely consistent with the vision of this timepiece. A domed sapphire crystal with a very pronounced curve therefore crowns the case of this Shooting Star® Tourbillon. But the designers did not stop there. To open the world of this timepiece to the infinite, the watch middle follows a pronounced oblique incline along the 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock axis. The hours disk corrector is positioned at 12 o’clock, for a supremely ergonomic display and positioning that confirm the symmetry of the watch.

The presence of a total of seven domes, including the four hemispheres of the movement, the dials, the tourbillon carriage and the upper crystal lend the ultimate finishing touch to this timepiece.

Before the Récital 18 Shooting Star® Tourbillon, the notion of infinity was defined by two closely related concepts alone: space and time. To these we must now add the passion of Pascal Raffy and the craftsmen of the House of BOVET, which has once again proved that it has no limits.

About BOVET:

BOVET 1822 is a Swiss Manufacturer of luxury timepieces whose origins date back to 1822, the year in which Edouard Bovet founded their workshop in the picturesque Val-de-Travers region of Switzerland. BOVET is renowned for its pocket watches manufactured for the Chinese market in the 19th century. Today, under the guidance and ownership of Pascal Raffy, a visionary with a passion for Haute Horlogerie, BOVET is thriving, manufacturing unique timepieces distinguished by their pocket watch inspired form. From extraordinary complications such as tourbillons and minute repeaters, to rare artisanal crafts such as enamel painting and fleurisanne engraving, each BOVET timepiece is brought to life under the practiced hand of a BOVET master watchmaker. With a highly limited production annually, BOVET seeks to preserve and cultivate the art and craft of traditional watchmaking, while delighting connoisseurs and collectors.

For additional information please visit:www.bovet.com

CAROLE SHASHONA UNVEILS LATEST BLACK DIAMOND JEWELRY COLLECTION

from website information....

LAST WEEKEND JEWELRY DESIGNER AND FENG SHUI GURU, CAROLE SHASHONA UNVEILED HER LATEST BLACK DIAMOND JEWELRY COLLECTION AT BARNEY'S NEW YORK IN BEVERLY HILLS....

CAROLE SHASHONA
Spirit & Style Designer Carole Shashona is the creator of “Meditation-on-the-Go”, an effective way to meditate and quickly de-stress with her Luxurious, Black by Carole Collections. Carole’s approach focuses on the Art of Being…Spirit, Mind, and Body. Her unique Sensory Design technique interlocks all the senses to maximize the Power of Wellness.

Carole is recognized as the only Asian trained American Grand Master in Feng Shui; she was trained in both the Compass and Black Hat Tantric Buddhist Schools. Following her training, Carole partnered with Louise Hay and Barbara Brennan to establish the Center of Living in New York, a destination promoting health and wellness.

She broadened her scope assisting her clients with wardrobe styling, authored the book “Feng Shui Chic”, and had a column in Feng Shui for Modern Living Magazine in London. The Carole Shashona Black Diamond Jewelry Collection is available exclusively at Barneys New York.

Carole's book is available here: Feng Shui Chic: Change Your Life with Spirit and Style.

CAROLE SHASHONA - THE BLACK DIAMOND JEWELRY COLLECTION

Spirit & Style designer Carole Shashona redefines the purpose of statement jewelry by combining aesthetic beauty with “The Power of Wellness.” From the visual side, the luxe “Black by Carole” collection has symbolic meaning, as the pieces are rooted in the art of Feng Shui and designed to bring harmony, protection, love, health, and overall positive energy to the women who wear them.

Black by Carole, Jewelry Collections feature a signature coin with black diamonds, whether attached to the piece or as a separate charm. This special coin is a personal amulet, and fashioned to assist with meditation at home or “on the go”.

“My jewelry was inspired and designed to evoke and maintain those same meditative qualities in whomever wears it, to follow them throughout their day, and to remind them of their dreams and desires,” says Carole. “Like all of my designs, every piece in my Black Diamond Collection works like a life compass, keeping the wearer on course toward personal happiness.”

Jewelry at Barney's New York:  

Jewelry Website:  http://blackbycarole.com/

Facebook:               https://www.facebook.com/caroleshashona

Carole Shashona Brand Website:  http://www.caroleshashona.com/