At #GIA Dreher Exhibition and Talk With Patrick Dreher

We recently spent an extraordinary evening at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)...

You may have seen my announcement recently the Patrick Dreher from the Gem Carving Dynasty from Germany would be speaking at GIA! ...well we didn't hesitate!

A Little History

The undeniable Gem Carving capital of the world is Idar Oberstein and I think that many of us are aware of several of the Gem Artists and Styles that have come from that region.  Most have heard of the Munsteiner family and in particular Bernd Munsteiner who is the artist behind the Dom Pedro Aquamarine (14 inches tall and weighs 10,363 carats) in the Smithsonian...

Photo via GIA website

 The Munsteiners have their style of carving/faceting and other Ateliers in Idar Oberstein focus elsewhere.  With this exhibit, it was interesting to learn the history of one of the few cutters that concentrate in the area of animal figures...and not pieced together figures (though they have created pieced figures) but the House of Dreher's focus is figures created from a single piece of gem rough.

Patrick Dreher is the 5th generation carver in his family from a region that is the soul of Gem Cutting and Carving - Idar Oberstein has a 500 year legacy....

Seen at the Scene

The evening started in the Main Lobby at GIA where the Dreher pieces had been beautifully displayed in the cases at the far side of the room, Food and Drink Serving Station behind the Reception Desk and tables filled the center.  

 

 

 

It was a gathering that had attracted some of the most important names in the Industry - these are just a few of the faces I recognized....

• The Larsen Family - Bill, Jeanne, their sons with their significant others....the evening was made possible due to their generous loan of the Carvings on display from the personal Collection of Bill & Jeanne Larsen.

• Harold & Erica Van Pelt - two of the best gem and mineral photographers in the world. Few know that for the last 35 years Harold Van Pelt has perfected an extraordinary gem carving technique (a piece of Harold's is currently on display at GIA).

• Meg Berry, of MegaGem, Multi-Award Winning Gem Cutter, formerly with Pala International

• Robert Weldon, Manager of Photography and Visual Communications at GIA

• Blair Beavers with the Pearl Guide and Graduate Gemologist

Meeting the Artist

We asked to move to a room that GIA often uses for presentations, seminars and symposiums...and in true GIA style the room was perfectly appointed so that everyone could see the detailed carvings and techniques as they were described.

Mr. Dreher spoke beautiful English and started with a brief overview of the 500 year gem cutting tradition of Idar-Oberstein, and wove his family's role throughout.  It was fabulous hearing about the distinction between assembled  pieces made from multiple gems and pieced together and the Dreher trademark use of a single piece of gem rough. 

At one point he described his carving technique which would have been lost on most of those in attendance if it weren't for the multiple viewing screens throughout the room. 

We then adjourned to the Lobby for Coffee & Dessert.

Thank you GIA, Patrick Dreher and the Larsen Family for the lovely evening, good company and yet another fabulous learning experience.

India: Jewels that Enchanted the World - Exhibition of Indian Jewellery at State Museums of Moscow Kremlin

"India: Jewels that Enchanted the World"
exhibition in Moscow 

India: Jewels that Enchanted the World, the most comprehensive exhibition of Indian jewellery ever staged, opened in April to great fanfares in the State Museums of Moscow Kremlin.

Necklace (Makarakanthi), Tamil Nadu, 20^thCentury.
Collection Musée Barbier-Mueller, Geneva.

The exhibition examines the legacy of 500 years of Indian jewellery, from the 17^thcentury to the present day. More than 300 pieces of jewellery and jewelled objects -- generously loaned from over 30 museums, institutions and private collections from around the world -- were brought together for the first time to showcase the beauty of Indian craftsmanship, the magnificence of diamond and gemstone setting and the aesthetic refinement of Indian taste. Many of the items have never been exhibited before.

Indian-inspired necklace, van Cleef & Arpels,  Paris , France.

Indian-inspired necklace, van Cleef & Arpels, 

Paris , France.

The exhibition is the result of successful collaboration between the diamond and jewellery industry and the major cultural institution. It is the brainchild of Alex Popov, President of the Moscow Diamond Bourse and the chairman of the World Diamond Mark Foundation, who in 2011 suggested the idea to Dr. Elena Gagarina, Director of Kremlin Museum. Together, they brought together scholars and enthusiasts from India, UK, Switzerland and the USA to realise the ambitious project.

To manage and market the multi-year project, Mr. Popov formed Indo-Russian Jewellery Foundation (IRJF). The foundation took a leading role in locatyion of the exhibition, hired world-renowned curators, photographers, writers and experts and fully coordinated and oversaw the organization of the event. IRJF received generous support from Alrosa and the Gem & Jewellery  Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) of India, as well as from various other benefactors.

"The list institutions, museums and collectors who made their jewellery available, and the unique list of experts, curators and advisors that we engaged for this project, is solid proof of the exclusivity and unmatched quality of the pieces that are on display at this exhibition, " Popov stated. "A - partial - list of friends who helped make this happen includes: Dr. Elena Gagarina and her dedicated team; Prof. David Khalili of Khalili Foundation; Monique Barbier-Mueller of Musée Barbier-Mueller in Geneva; Lee Siegelson; Dr. Amin Jaffer from Christie's; Serge Fradkoff; Ronny Totah; Beatrice de Plinval of Chaumet; Catherine Cariou of Van Cleef; Pascale Lepeu of Cartier; Patrick Mauboussin; the Kasliwal and Arora families from Jaipur; Viren and Madhura Bhagat and their wonderful sons; Dr. Neil McGregor, Director of the British Museum, Dr. Usha Balakrishnan and Ekaterina Scherbina, exhibition curators; Michael Anikst, the exhibition's catalogue designer."

Nicolas Bos, President and CEO, Van Cleef & Arpels

and Alex 

Popov examining the showcase with famous 

Maharani of Baroda jewels made by Van Cleef & Arpels 

The exhibition's opening night was attended by a who-is-who of the top jewellery houses and specialists in the world: Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Chaumet, Siegelson, Totah, Faerber and others; auction houses Christie's and Sotheby's; representatives of major museums, scholars and collectors. "I was especially honored with the video greeting by Dr. Irina Bokova, Director General of UNESCO, whose kind words make us all proud of this achievement and underline the importance of cultural exchanges and the preservation of heritage".

"As the Chairman of the World Diamond Mark Foundation, an initiative of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), I see this exhibition as the first major event on the long road to generic diamond promotion. Others will follow very soon," Popov concluded.

Gala Dinner Venue

Faber's "Genius Of Nature" Explores 23 Jewelry Artists Interpretation of the Artistry of Nature

        "Genius of Nature” Exhibition Explores Mysterious Artistry of Nature, 

as Interpreted by 23 Celebrated Jewelry Artists

Aaron Faber Gallery Announces October 2013 Exhibition featuring 75 New Nature-Inspired Designs

Aaron Faber Gallery has assembled 23 celebrated jewelry artists to deliver their interpretations of nature’s genius through 75 exquisite designs of nature-inspired jewelry artistry. 

The exhibition, “Genius of Nature”, premieres October 2013 at the 666 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY gallery location. 

This exhibition will explore how, in the world of artist-made jewelry, the goldsmith’s plan mirrors the grand designs of the universe, where chaos and structure, randomness and pattern, the heat of the torch, the movement of gold, the energy of divine creation, results in an ornamental artifact of intelligent design.

“The works curated for this exhibition look to capture this sense of the organic, of the expanding, of the not-quite-planned, as well as featuring jewels that relate more to nature’s inspiration on a graphic or visual level”, said Patricia Kiley Faber, curator of the Genius of Nature Exhibition and co-owner of Aaron Faber Gallery. 

“It was important to include established and emerging artists, where the collection ranges from the unexpected to the more familiar. In all of these artists’ works, one can discern that magical energy of creativity, pattern and randomness converging as the artists’ attempt to capture something universal in a single remarkable jewel.”

The participating artists include: 
        Atelier Munsteiner               Emmeline Hastings
         Atelier Zobel                         Ornella Iannuzzi
         Glenda Arentzen                  Dejan Jovanovic
         Deborah Aguado                   Christy Klug
         Elise Bergeron                       Juha Koskela
         Bongsang Cho                        Paolo Marcolongo
         Jacqueline Cullen                  Gigi Mariani
         Julia DeVille                           Enric Marjoral
         Roland Dubuc                         SoYoung Park
         Arata Fuchi                            Linda Priest  
                                                               Emanuela Duca                      Luzia Vogt        
                                                               Michael Good

“Genius of Nature” opens October 3, 2013 and will run through October 26, 2013.
For more information and to view works from participating designers, please visit the gallery website at:  http://geniusofnature.lmrpr.com 


About Aaron Faber GalleryAaron Faber Gallery was founded in 1974 to present the work of studio jewelers, those artists creating one-of-a-kind jewels that are inspired by creativity and originality, made in the artist’s studio and imbued with the artist’s spirit, concept and style.

The gallery, owned by Edward and Patricia Faber is located on West 53rd Street down the block from the Museum of Modern Art, where its contemporary interior is the backdrop for changing exhibitions by studio jewelers as well as permanent collections by the gallery’s artist group. For more information, please visit www.aaronfaber.com.

More is More: Tony Duquette & Hutton Wilkinson Jewelry to Go On Exhibit

More is More: Tony Duquette & Hutton Wilkinson Jewelry to Go On Exhibit

Iconic pieces to be featured at GIA’s World Headquarters in California

CARLSBAD, Calif. – July 16, 2013 – More than fifty emblematic jewelry creations by Hollywood design legends Tony Duquette and Hutton Wilkinson make up the duos’ first-ever all-jewelry exhibit, “More is More: Tony Duquette - Hutton Wilkinson Jewelry,” which debuts on Oct. 10 at GIA’s (Gemological Institute of America) world headquarters in Carlsbad, CA. The acclaimed body of work, which will be on display through March 2014, embraces a wide variety of styles, periods and palettes often showcasing unusual gemstones paired with rare materials in whimsical designs.

“Duquette and Wilkinson’s jewelry make a show-stopping statement. Someone wearing these pieces would not go unnoticed,” said Terri Ottaway, curator of the GIA Museum. “It is amazing to see the unusual gemstone choices they made – and astonishing to see how well these unconventional materials work together.”

Duquette – the first and only American to be honored with a one-man show at the Louvre in Paris – worked with business partner and design collaborator Wilkinson for more than 30 years prior to his death in 1999. The Duchess of Windsor, Doris Duke, Buddy Rogers, J. Paul Getty and Elizabeth Arden were among their many famous clients. Their bold and theatrical jewelry designs draw inspiration from their notable work as costume and set designers during the Golden Age of Hollywood. “If it’s not fabulous, it’s meaningless,” Wilkinson has said of their design aesthetic.

“They chose color for inspiration rather than searching for perfection in the gems,” Larry Larson, a gemology instructor at GIA, added. “They always seemed to go for strength rather than the merely pretty.”

Wilkinson continues to create pieces for the “Tony Duquette Collection” using their favorite materials such as malachite, pearls, emerald and coral. Wilkinson describes these jewelry designs as bold, theatrical, extravagant, Byzantine and sometimes even barbaric.

Pieces exhibited are on loan from personal collectors and The Anthony and Elizabeth Duquette Foundation for the Living Arts. “More is More: Tony Duquette - Hutton Wilkinson Jewelry” will be on display from Oct. 10, 2013through March 2014. For more details, visit GIA’s website or call 800-421-7250.

“Floral Wreath” Necklace

The Duchess of Windsor-style necklace is made of citrine, tourmaline and mabe pearl set in 18K gold. Following the1951 exhibit at the Louvre, the Duchess of Windsor commissioned Duquette to make a gold wreath of vines and flowers, which she often wore to evening events. Prior to the debut of this necklace, it was customary to wear only platinum after 5 p.m.

"Homage to Elsie De Wolfe" Jeweled Box

The small lapis lazuli box featuring cameos is a homage to Duquette’s early mentor, Elsie De Wolfe – later Lady Mendl – the “first Lady of Interior Decoration.” 

"Imperial Dragon" Cuffs

A pair of antique 18th century carved white jade Foo Dogs set in their original 18K gold enamel are grasped by diamond tipped claws. The 18k gold cuffs feature tsavorite garnet, green tourmaline and citrine. The cuffs represent an eclectic mixture of old and new. 

"Dreams of Klimt" Bracelet

Square sugarloaf cut cabochons, tourmaline and diamond.

"Paisley River" Earrings

A pair of carved tourmaline, yellow sapphire and diamond earrings set in 18k gold.

"Othello” Brooch

Ruby, diamond, South Sea cultured pearl and tourmaline blackamore “dressed figures” are a mix of modern and ancient designs.

About GIA

An independent nonprofit organization, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), established in 1931, is recognized as the world’s foremost authority in gemology. GIA invented the famous 4Cs of Color, Cut, Clarity and Carat Weight in the early 1950s and in 1953, created the International Diamond Grading System™ which, today, is recognized by virtually every professional jeweler in the world.

Through research, education, gemological laboratory services, and instrument development, the Institute is dedicated to ensuring the public trust in gems and jewelry by upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics, science, and professionalism. Visit www.gia.edu. 

Carnegie Museum of Natural History presents Garden of Light: Works by Paula Crevoshay

Carnegie Museum of Natural History presents
Garden of Light: Works by Paula Crevoshay
More than 60 fine art jewelry pieces inspired by nature

Midnight Seduction (ladyslipper orchid)

Sapphire, blue zircon, black diamond, 

coral, and abalone pearl pendant by 

Paula Crevoshay; photo by Chris Chavez

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania…Experience the beauty of nature through more than 60 original pieces by award-winning jewelry artist Paula Crevoshay in a new exhibition, Garden of Light: Works by Paula Crevoshay.

Featuring stunning jewelry depicting botanicals, insects, and more, the single-artist exhibition appeals to nature lovers as well as fans of lapidary art. Many of the pieces are shown juxtaposed with spectacular minerals and insects from the Carnegie Museum of Natural History collection as examples of the nature-created materials by which Crevoshay is so inspired. 

Octavian

Opal, white gold, blackened chodium, 

black diamond, and black spinel brooch 

by Paula Crevoshay; photo by Chris Chavez

From a magnificent orchid pendant to a tiny spider pin, these one-of-a-kind pieces in Garden of Light celebrate the beauty and interdependencies of the animal, plant, and mineral kingdoms. 

Garden of Light is on view at Carnegie Museum of Natural History April 13–August 11, 2013, in Wertz Gallery: Gems & Jewelry, part of Hillman Hall of Minerals and Gems. Garden of Light is supported locally by Merrill Lynch Wealth Management.     

   

“It’s in our nature to mimic Nature,” says Crevoshay, and so she does with the skill of a sculptor and painter in her pieces which are as much fine art as jewelry. Crevoshay uses her work to further the beauty she sees everywhere in the world. “As an artist, I mirror back to nature that which it inspires in me, which in turn strikes a chord in my viewers.”

Luna Moth

Opal, chrysoprase, moonstone, and 

diamond brooch/pendant by Paula 

Crevoshay; photo by Chris Chavez

Highlights of the exhibition include:

• Gold, opal, sapphire, and incredibly rare conch pearls, just a few of the materials that are incorporated into the pieces

• Exhibits of “ecosystems” featuring pieces which reflect the biodiversity and important relationships between plants, insects, and the elements, such as water in the garden

Poppy

Moonstone, black diamond, opal, 

and diamond brooch/pendant by 

Paula Crevoshay; photo by Chris Chavez

• A selection of gem-laden orchids by Crevoshay paired with specialized insects pulled from the museum’s invertebrate zoology collection that would pollinate the orchid species in nature

• Natural mineral specimens showing the transformation that takes place from mineral to work of art at Crevoshay’s hand

• The role of color—especially hues of green, blue, and red—in the garden ecosystem, explored and exemplified by the gems and minerals of the jewelry

• Charming characters from sprites to nymphs, inspired by but not from nature, representing the long cultural history humans have of trying to capture the beauty, spirit, and essence of nature

About the Artist

Paula Crevoshay has been a jewelry designer for more than 30 years. Her artistry focuses on original, one-of-a-kind pieces. Her work combines her love of art, history, and nature. She is considered one of the foremost jewelry designers of our time.  

                                                                                                     

Helios

Opal brooch/pendant by Paula Crevoshay; 

photo by Peter Hurst Photography

The Carnegie Museum of Natural History, one of the four Carnegie Museums of Pittsburgh, is among the top natural history museums in the country and is redefining what it means to be a 21st-century natural history museum. It maintains, preserves, and interprets an extraordinary collection of 22 million objects and scientific specimens used to broaden understanding of evolution, conservation, and biodiversity. Through four new Centers, Carnegie Museum of Natural History generates new scientific knowledge, advances science literacy, and inspires visitors of all ages to become passionate about science, nature, and world cultures. More information is available by calling 412.622.3131 or by visiting the website, www.carnegiemnh.org.

#WordlessWednesday - Van Cleef & Arpels Exhibition in Paris!

If you have plans to be in Paris between now and February 10th,  here are a few highlights (in the spirit of Wordless Wednesday) and be sure to go to the bottom or this post for an opportunity to win tickets to the exhibition:

The Egyptian Bracelet - Close UP!



Egyptian creations, circa1924, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection:Jewelry inspired by the art of Ancient Egypt was at the height of fashion in the 1920's, which explains why Van Cleef & Arpels created numerous Egyptian-inspired jewels between 1922 and 1925. They reflect the extraordinary interest in the discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb by Lord Carnarvon in 1922. 

These exceptional jewels are decorated with scenes of offerings and hieroglyphic motifs depicting scarabs, sphinxes, amphorae, bulls, ostrich feathers, lotus flowers and bees, in a reference to Ancient Egyptian iconography. They are set with precious buff-topped emeralds, sapphires, rubies, diamonds and calibrated onyx stones.

These unique Egyptian-inspired creations are highly sought after by connoisseurs and collectors. 

Win invitations (transportation to Paris not included) to see the Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian creations, circa 1924 at the Paris exhibition: http://goo.gl/cg6da

Biennale des Antiquaires 2012 Paris Exhibition

Bouquet d'Ailes from the House of Boucheron Emeralds, diamonds, sapphires, morganites, tourmalines, white, pink and yellow gold

As you are probably all aware the Biennale des Antiquaires runs through the 23rd of Sept in PARIS!!!  ...and this post is just an excuse to post some of these stunning pieces!

When you see these designs you will wonder how the designers and goldsmiths for these Couture Houses are able to produce so many detailed and MAGICAL designs in a two year period.

You can find a great preview from The Jewellery Editor - Marie Doulton:

Biennale des Antiquaires 2012 opens to the world

"The doors of the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris open on a bright early autumn day. The Biennale is host to 150 exhibitors, nearly double the 86 present at the last event in 2010. The 26th Biennale des Antiquaires runs from 14th September to the 23rd at the Grand Palais and alongside the world's most exclusive antique and art dealers are ten of the most desirable jewellers including Cartier, Chanel, Harry Winston,Boucheron, Piaget, Van Cleef and Arpels,Dior and for the first time ever Bulgari and Chinese jeweller Wallace Chan. All of these houses have created their most refined jewels for this event which is the most important high jewellery client event in the calendar that comes but once every two years."

Marie's complete report: 
http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/2012/06/biennale-des-antiquaires-2012-preview/

From Piaget - Ultimate seduction for this gorgeous embroidery inspired necklace that is both rare and sumptuous, embroidered with gold filaments and diamonds. Its entirely openwork, articulated structure makes it look like lace. This centrepiece of the collection is made in the same way as a Haute Couture dress, on the bias and finished with a smooth cut. It took more than 800 hours of work to create.

Go inside this Grand Exhibition with The Jewellery Editor...
From Marie: "We take you to the Grand Palais in Paris for the 26th Biennale des Antiquaires. Here you'll see highlights from Boucheron; Bulgari; Cartier; Chanel; Chaumet; Harry Winston; Dior; Piaget; Van Cleef & Arpels; and Chinese jewellery artist Wallace Chan."

One of the most FUN features from the Design Houses has to be this GREAT app from Boucheron - if you are at the exhibition take a photo of your favorite Boucheron piece (good luck with choosing just one) and post it to their Facebook page!

Boucheron at the Biennale des Antiquaires through the visitors eyes: discover the creations that impressed them the most with our digital Guest Book!https://www.facebook.com/boucheron/app_458275674193821